6 blade Herring prop nut removal
#2
1 7/16 inch socket. Not sure of your transmissions, but you dont want to shift without motor running, so out of gear is how I do it. Use a block of wood, or their are a variety of tools made to hold the prop to loosen nut.
#3
The block of wood always works, but especially with thin/sharp labbed blades and Herrings, I get nervous about damaging a blade, especially when you do the side that requires pressure on the leading edge.
For this case, I recommend cutting your own block of wood with a wedge shape to it that will distribute the pressure to two blades, vs. one.
The prop bite wrenches on the market work, but I have seen them slip off as well. I guess you have to hold your tongue in the right spot.
For this case, I recommend cutting your own block of wood with a wedge shape to it that will distribute the pressure to two blades, vs. one.
The prop bite wrenches on the market work, but I have seen them slip off as well. I guess you have to hold your tongue in the right spot.
#6
Putting the transmission in gear with a BW72C does exactly nothing when not running, as they require hydraulic pressure to engage the clutches.
I wouldn't worry about hurting the props with a block of wood. Just keep yourself from getting cut up.
I wouldn't worry about hurting the props with a block of wood. Just keep yourself from getting cut up.
#7
Thanks Guys,The block of wood is scary as Brett of BB blades says he gets a lot of repairs from guys that use wood blocks. I like the impact gun idea .The 6 blade herrings are tough to get the wood near the hub where the strength is. Brett recommends a friend with thick leather gloves hold the prop while you wrench the nut. You guys are great! Thanks for your suggestions ,it is really appreciated.
#8
I wonder why, after all these years of making these things, no one has built a propshaft with a hex at the end, slightly smaller than the thread diameter, so you can get another wrench against it. Or, maybe a huge ( like 3/4" or 7/8") hex key and do it like a rocker stud?
#9
I can promise you, once you use an impact gun. You will never be without them, plus they are nice to have in case of trailer flats.
I don't see how you could ever get enough torque with someone holding just the prop.
I don't see how you could ever get enough torque with someone holding just the prop.
#10
A big cordless impact is the way to go. Couldn't live without that tool anymore. Stick with a Dewalt or Makita. Some of the other off brand stuff hasn't been the greatest, and some of the craftsman impacts I have seen haven't impressed me either.
Also, make sure you do not use any reducers/adapters on your impact as that lessens torque. Get a socket that fits right onto your impact. McMaster Carr has a nice impact rated socket that was priced well and works great.
Keep in mind to that most cordless impacts only produce about 1/3 of the torque that they are rated for (maybe a little more if the battery is plump full) whether it be dewalt or makita. You should get one "rated" for 300ft.lbs of "max torque". Some of them have ratings for working torque as well.....
Also, make sure you do not use any reducers/adapters on your impact as that lessens torque. Get a socket that fits right onto your impact. McMaster Carr has a nice impact rated socket that was priced well and works great.
Keep in mind to that most cordless impacts only produce about 1/3 of the torque that they are rated for (maybe a little more if the battery is plump full) whether it be dewalt or makita. You should get one "rated" for 300ft.lbs of "max torque". Some of them have ratings for working torque as well.....
Last edited by Coolerman; 11-17-2011 at 09:29 PM.




