FIXX

iTrader: (2)

the exhaust bellow is only their to keep from ruining the ujoint bellow with the heat whyle on plane..not needed if your going to block it off and yes their are 2 types of gimbal bearing pullers,,slide 3 jaw slide hammer and a threaded rod style with plates to pull the bearing..still need the instalition tool tho.

cheech

Do you heat the pin or the gimbal ring itself? Curious about burning the paint.

dereknkathy

i stick a jack handle into the gimbal bearing and rotate it part way. then hit it with a punch or long screwdriver to rotate it sideways. then it pulls right out, leaving the cage behind. then clean out inside of cage and pump some grease in to make sure it isn't plugged. put new bearing onto same jack handle and smack cage to rotate it off bearing. then you put new bearing in sideways and rotate it straight. no puller needed. there are 2 slots in bearing cage to remove reinstall bearing. MAKE SURE that you see them before you do this. if prev bearing was installed backwards, the slots face engine and this is not possible. also, when rein stalling bearing, make sure the grease hole in bearing is forward and lined up with grease slot in cage. otherwise it can't be lubed and will have a short life. i don't like pressing cages into and out of the housing. it gets a little bigger with each time done.

sprink58

Glad that worked out for you...my 4th one was the one I had to cut. How do the necks that catch the U-Joint bellows on the housing look? If the bellows have been maintained they survive ok...my starboard side was split so I had to replace everything. You should have heard the racket that gimbal bearing made!!

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Here are some pics of a home made rig I used to pull the gimbal bearings.

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Take your time...think it through...save big bucks

scottw

iTrader: (1)

Gotta heat the ring around the hinge pin to expand it and breakdown the loctite. Gonna waste the paint either way.

picklenjim

The threads aren't in the gimble ring, their in the bellhousing so heating the gimble ring won't heat the threaded area at all. With the drive off you can use a propane torch turned down low and heat the area around the pin inside the bellhousing. It don't need a whole lot to loosen up the loctite.

jason y

heat where the threads goes into where its painted the handheld porpane torch didnt bother the paint def takes some time to get it warm enough though dont use a acetelyne torch as they will blow holes in aluminum super easy..

jason y

yea i heard the bearing in mine to i knew it was bad where the bellows goes on are good but i had one bolt break off in the housing and stud corroded in half.. so both my transom plates might/are junk

sprink58

well at least you already have the engines out and No 1 transom plates are out there and available.

kritiana08

i stuck a few allens in them ill have to see if i had mm or ase as i didnt look was just tryin to find one that fit.. yes i already sprayed em down
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