TRS pushing oil from breathers.... both of them...
#11
When I upped my power to 600HP and put on larger props I also noticed that my drives were running hotter. They would now get the white chalky hard water stains that I had only seen on Bravo drives prior. So they are creating more heat and with that heat the fluid is expanding more. Mine barely registers on the dipstick when cold.
If I ever get around to it I was going to make a shower for my drives.
If I ever get around to it I was going to make a shower for my drives.
#12
My experience was the same as said above, anything over just barely on the tip of the dipstick and it would puke out and make a mess.
I taped the dipsticks down with gray electrical tape (leaves no residue, like black does), and swapped the breathers out to nipples with clear hoses to additional puke tanks until we got it under control. Once it quit showing up in the clear hose, removed the extra tanks, put the breathers back on and left it alone.
I taped the dipsticks down with gray electrical tape (leaves no residue, like black does), and swapped the breathers out to nipples with clear hoses to additional puke tanks until we got it under control. Once it quit showing up in the clear hose, removed the extra tanks, put the breathers back on and left it alone.
#13
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,692
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
If you try it as I mentioned above and still have spillage then it most likely means that your upper drive bearings are going bad. I also run mine hard and no problems. Also don't over look your engine RPM difference because it could be in your transmissions and/or drives.
enines were equal when in the other boat, one engine has merc ignition, other has msd, the merc one has less timingit looks like, I am putting the MSD distributor/ign in that one today...im almost sure that's the issue..
#14
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,692
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
My experience was the same as said above, anything over just barely on the tip of the dipstick and it would puke out and make a mess.
I taped the dipsticks down with gray electrical tape (leaves no residue, like black does), and swapped the breathers out to nipples with clear hoses to additional puke tanks until we got it under control. Once it quit showing up in the clear hose, removed the extra tanks, put the breathers back on and left it alone.
I taped the dipsticks down with gray electrical tape (leaves no residue, like black does), and swapped the breathers out to nipples with clear hoses to additional puke tanks until we got it under control. Once it quit showing up in the clear hose, removed the extra tanks, put the breathers back on and left it alone.
#16
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Delaware, OH
Full Force, would your prop selection be making the drives work to hard?
#17
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Lake Conroe, TX.
This is the reason. The only other reason that they will spit is when they get water in them. The water expands and pushes it out the top but as you said, fluid is clean. They are just over filled.
#18
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
Last weekend I was using my 24P 3 blades... 53-5500 rpm....
The TRS drives have a reservoir mounted on the transom in the engine compartment with a dipstick, unlike your bravos that have a clear reservoir with no dipstick. Just before each launch I check oil dipstick, tranny dipstick, and drive oil dipstick X2. It's a pain in the arse but can save you lots of $$$$.
Full Force, would your prop selection be making the drives work to hard?
Full Force, would your prop selection be making the drives work to hard?




