s022mag

I have a leak right where my line ties into the block manifold under the gimbal ring. The fitting is screwed in at a angle and leaks when the drive is lowered. I'm hoping to just back it out and thread it on straight but if for some reason the threads are jacked up and I need to replace that block how big of a project is that. One of the diagrams show hoses on the top side from the inside. Was curious if that's a pain to remove.

Thanks.

mickeymcclgn

iTrader: (1)

It's not too hateful, just alittle messy. I'm assuming your boat doesn't have extension boxes correct? Basically you drop 2 - 1/4" (7/16" head) bolts and the manifold will drop down. The trim lines from the pump are threaded into the top of the manifold with 90 degree ends on the hoses. Remove them and you're done.

It's been awhile since I've done one but I'm pretty sure that there's an order to installing the hoses. I believe the front one goes on first then the rear one but don't hold me to that.

picklenjim

Make sure the drive is all the way down when you do this. Just be sure to get all the lines back in the right spots. Don't matter what order you do them in. When done run the drive all the way up and down a couple times to remove the air in the lines. That should be all you need to do for bleeding. The block is on studs so there are actually nuts on it. If you replace the block be sure to get a new gasket also!

dereknkathy

2000 donzi? might have mercathode on it too. drop that down first and let the wires hang. and when you put it together, don't cross-thread it like the last guy did!! edit; the mercathode wires go thru the block you are changing out. either unhook wires from unit inside boat, tie a string or wire to them and pull through, or cut the wires and patch them. if you do that, pull about a foot or so of wire down so the patch can be pulled back above bilge water level.

s022mag

I was able to back out the one line and thread it back in straight. Thanks for the help.