Drive discussion: trs. 3's. And 5's
#51
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iTrader: (1)
lets really screw them up. lets not forget that the #4 came in a big and small shaft!!!! i know of a few guys that call their big shaft 4's a #5 drive so you gotta be careful. even tho i was told that when they went to the big shaft 4 it was considered the early version of a 5 since it came out after the small shaft 4
#52
see now that there is why i am confused a bit
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#53
Original poster RMPRam
Lil red is correct. All the #4's have a "polygon shape" front driveshaft, while some of the early #5's did also. In my opinion, the polygon shaft is just as "good" as the splined version that Mercury switched to in the later #5's. None, again from my sources, of the #4's had the near net forged, straight cut upper gear sets. They were a later "up-grade" in the #5's. The lower gear sets, RH and LH internal splines, on the #4's and the #5's are different with the #4's having fewer splines on the pinion gears, than the later #5's. A #4 can be upgraded to be, again in my opinion, as strong as a #5 with the addition of a set of the net forged, straight cut polygon'd upper gears and also the 1.75" dia. propshaft. I have both of these pieces, new, available for the #4. Check my classified ad for more information. If I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to give me a call.
Gary
612-247-7081
Lil red is correct. All the #4's have a "polygon shape" front driveshaft, while some of the early #5's did also. In my opinion, the polygon shaft is just as "good" as the splined version that Mercury switched to in the later #5's. None, again from my sources, of the #4's had the near net forged, straight cut upper gear sets. They were a later "up-grade" in the #5's. The lower gear sets, RH and LH internal splines, on the #4's and the #5's are different with the #4's having fewer splines on the pinion gears, than the later #5's. A #4 can be upgraded to be, again in my opinion, as strong as a #5 with the addition of a set of the net forged, straight cut polygon'd upper gears and also the 1.75" dia. propshaft. I have both of these pieces, new, available for the #4. Check my classified ad for more information. If I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to give me a call.
Gary
612-247-7081
#56
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But what about transmission? No one seems to care about having trannies! That is what i had problems with! That is what i would get rid of and make me go bravo!
When you want to check transmission fluid, you need to have the boat level up to a certain point, oil warm so running engines is a must, then when you turn the ignition off, you have to litterally run down to tranny to check oil level before it goes back in the cooler and level runs low...
Thats a pita in itself imo. Still for those drives even if trannie needed? What do you guys do with those? Keep a spare trannie as well?
When you want to check transmission fluid, you need to have the boat level up to a certain point, oil warm so running engines is a must, then when you turn the ignition off, you have to litterally run down to tranny to check oil level before it goes back in the cooler and level runs low...
Thats a pita in itself imo. Still for those drives even if trannie needed? What do you guys do with those? Keep a spare trannie as well?
TRS parts are readily available also, I can buy 12 pairs of drives right now if I made a few phone calls... I also have 2 brand new gearsets on shelf, and a box full of extra parts.... the more guys that ditch TRS makes more out there for parts!!
#60
Registered
Interesting reading this thread. There are always different variables that may or may not come into question. Some spoke about speed. etc. Others about what holds behind what power. And it all needs to be taken on a boat by boat case along with how you intend to use it and what your goals are. I know a guy that bought a Baja of all things that had blower motors and 5's on it. He had no idea what he bought and first time in the water, when he had to floor the **** out of it to even attempt to get the boat to plane, He was like " I'm out " sold it the next week. Regardless, chris21hope, I just wanted to throw out there and see what your plans were. I had much experience in a 33' Scarab with High Horsepower Procharged engines ( another thing most here will say is Junk, cause they don't know or just don't care to understand ) and ran that boat a good bit over 100mph , before xr style gears were even out. Using at one time Spiral Bevel 1.36 tops with IMCO shortie 15-17 geared bottoms creating like a 1.21:1 ratio or something. Using bravo Four bladed wheels most the time. I ran this boat constantly at the shootout, and in local poker runs along some cigarette friends etc. the thing was awesome. Did it never break. no. but rarely and it was usually a bearing issue in the top, Plus it ate up a lot of " fast " boats. I loved it and miss it. The owner I did the work for passed away and the boat went through several owners, and repos after that. It is now in Sweden. So there certainly is a place for a bravo boat, and with a couple of mild upgrades readily available for them now, at least on that hull, I can't imagine using anything else. good luck with your new motors, Should be Awesome. Those are one of the few hulls I see that always seem to bring good money yet when for sale.