They have both 1.35 & 1.50 for Bmaxes

Thanks jmoore1225.

You need to change the vertical shaft. Also you will need to deal with the cooling of the drive. The Bmax lower has a differr t cooling passage for the upper.

I have a very nice set of upper gears 1.3 ratio for sale if you need some

I called the bravo shop this past Thursday 4-9-15 and asked the exact same question. I need a stronger upper(bravo1) and have imco sc lower. The nice lady that answered the phone said my sc lower would not bolt up. She transferred me to John, I think, and he said it was possible to mate the bmax to sc lower but would require shaft change, $1100 and other mods such as redrilling two of the bolt holes that hold the upper and lower together. Also depending on how old the sc lower is water channels would also have to be modified!!! Basically it sounded like a pain in the azz and not worth the $ not sure what the total cost with labor is. Made the decision right then to go the the scx upper. My lower will bolt right up. But I also understand the helmet and possible gimble ring change are required. Which is fine probably need the extra strength! Hope this helps. I'm a firm believer in the bmax upper strength but in my opinion the lower is much slower than the sc lower and the max machine worx lower, esp their all billet lower. And it's(mmw lower) is much less likely to suck up sand when you park on a sand bar, if that applies, the water intake is further back by the skeg unlike the sc lower. In shallow water parking sand bars I will physically turn the boat around and run my finger in the intake to clear the sand/mud cause parking will bury the nose of the lower, before I start engine.
My ideal combo would be the imco scx upper with the mmworx all billet lower. In my opinion the all billet lower is the fastest available.
Although cant do anything for a few months obama took my outdrive money