bravo one gear lub?
#11
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From: medina ohio/ vermilion ohio
Thats what I was thinking of doing. Leave the top off the reservoir and pump it from the bottom all the way up into the reservoir that would push any air out the top u would think. It would be more pumping but it would be worth it to not take every thing apart.
#12
Always removed the top plug, mostly for drain venting, then filled from bottom till came out top, reinstalled top plug, then pumped a couple more pumps till lube started coming in the bottle to purge the air out of the hose, then just topped off bottle from inside.
I'd think if you leave the top plug in, you'd just have a little more resistance as your now venting thru the bell housing/upper housing check ball and resorvoir hose with smaller openings than the open top hole, so possibly just gotta pump slower.
I'd think if you leave the top plug in, you'd just have a little more resistance as your now venting thru the bell housing/upper housing check ball and resorvoir hose with smaller openings than the open top hole, so possibly just gotta pump slower.
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#15
Ok guys I know when changing the lube u pump fro the bottom till it comes out the top hole then put tbe plugs back in and fill the reservoir. Now on my new boat the top plug is behind the steering and tie bar mount and the only way to get to it is by removing the mount. Can u just pump from the bottom till it shows up in the reservoir and not have to take apart the steering?
I have the same issue with my Marine Machine steering and have been doing it that way for 5+ years.
Make sure the caps are off the reservoirs when you pump lube into the drives.
Mine do not have the hole on the '97 AT but did on my '96 Pantera. Same steering bracket except for the hole.
Last edited by Griff; 04-15-2015 at 01:40 AM.
#19
BE CAREFUL doing that. Sometimes it will continue expanding after you stop pumping and create a HUGE mess. Ask me how I know that. Stop at the "add" line on the bottle, and come back and top it off the next day.





