Blew up XR ITS Upper
#11
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From: Whitefish Chain - Crosslake, MN
If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
#12
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From: San Bernardino
If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
#13
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From: Whitefish Chain - Crosslake, MN
Well looking at the situation currently, it may be time to sacrifice the ujoint bellows and pull the hat/bellhousing off to see what is going on at the gimble bearing. Can you pivot the bellhousing up and down / side to side freely, or is it binding?
#14
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From: San Bernardino
yes the bell housing moves freely up down left and right. I pulled the pivot pins and thought maybe I could just sacrifice the bellows, the bellhousung will go in and out but, the shaft stays solid with the boat. I can even see the broken off piece of snout,(pretty much the threaded portion the spanner nut goes on that closes up the snout) moveing around up in there behind the pinion gear. The driveshaft is ether stuck in the gimbal bearing or the splines of the coupler. I think.
#15

Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl
You can get everything you need from Mcmaster
Put the hinge pins back in first.
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Last edited by Mbam; 09-04-2018 at 06:51 AM.
#16
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From: San Bernardino

Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl
You can get everything you need from Mcmaster
Put the hinge pins back in first.
your drawing is right on, I’ve invisioned in my head the same idea, i haven’t pulled the pinion nut yet, I did put the bell housing pins back in, so I can put pry bar under pinion gear, and at the moment, useing a 1” Allen wrench against the face of the bell Housing to pry against, I need the same setup x2 so I can pry evenly both sides. The puller would be great, making one, not so easy. I pulled my gimbal bearing puller out to see if it could be retrofitted. I’m going to call max machine worx this morning, I bet they may have a tool.
#17
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From: San Bernardino

Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl
You can get everything you need from Mcmaster
Put the hinge pins back in first.
#18
thank you for drawing this up for me. I spoke to Aaron at Max Machine, they made a tool to yank it out, modded slide hammer, so I’m going to stop messing with it. I think I’m goig to go with a standard Bravo case, with XR guts. Max makes a spanner nut that goes in the snout to allow XR parts. The standard bravo is much thicker in the snout area, then put in the steel tower. And whatever can be salvaged from my XR. I read the receipt, I only got new lower gears, my uppers where ok at rebuild. I had it gone through about 3-4 years ago, had the reverse gear swapped to drive, and a new drive. So the gears that let go, if that’s what happened, where oem from 2003. Not really bad for having 1000 hp or so in front of them. Can’t say I’m a crappy driver.
I agree, a crappy driver would not get 10 minutes with 1000 HP
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#19
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From: San Bernardino



