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Blew up XR ITS Upper

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Old 09-03-2018, 08:53 AM
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If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
thats what I’m afraid of. Is it stuck in the bearing or the coupler, if you go in the boat you can see the 2 o rings on the shaft that are usually on each side of the bearing
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Old 09-04-2018, 12:36 AM
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Well looking at the situation currently, it may be time to sacrifice the ujoint bellows and pull the hat/bellhousing off to see what is going on at the gimble bearing. Can you pivot the bellhousing up and down / side to side freely, or is it binding?
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Old 09-04-2018, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
Well looking at the situation currently, it may be time to sacrifice the ujoint bellows and pull the hat/bellhousing off to see what is going on at the gimble bearing. Can you pivot the bellhousing up and down / side to side freely, or is it binding?
yes the bell housing moves freely up down left and right. I pulled the pivot pins and thought maybe I could just sacrifice the bellows, the bellhousung will go in and out but, the shaft stays solid with the boat. I can even see the broken off piece of snout,(pretty much the threaded portion the spanner nut goes on that closes up the snout) moveing around up in there behind the pinion gear. The driveshaft is ether stuck in the gimbal bearing or the splines of the coupler. I think.
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:46 AM
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Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl

You can get everything you need from Mcmaster

Put the hinge pins back in first.

Last edited by Mbam; 09-04-2018 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mbam

Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl

You can get everything you need from Mcmaster

Put the hinge pins back in first.
thank you,
your drawing is right on, I’ve invisioned in my head the same idea, i haven’t pulled the pinion nut yet, I did put the bell housing pins back in, so I can put pry bar under pinion gear, and at the moment, useing a 1” Allen wrench against the face of the bell Housing to pry against, I need the same setup x2 so I can pry evenly both sides. The puller would be great, making one, not so easy. I pulled my gimbal bearing puller out to see if it could be retrofitted. I’m going to call max machine worx this morning, I bet they may have a tool.
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mbam

Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl

You can get everything you need from Mcmaster

Put the hinge pins back in first.
thank you for drawing this up for me. I spoke to Aaron at Max Machine, they made a tool to yank it out, modded slide hammer, so I’m going to stop messing with it. I think I’m goig to go with a standard Bravo case, with XR guts. Max makes a spanner nut that goes in the snout to allow XR parts. The standard bravo is much thicker in the snout area, then put in the steel tower. And whatever can be salvaged from my XR. I read the receipt, I only got new lower gears, my uppers where ok at rebuild. I had it gone through about 3-4 years ago, had the reverse gear swapped to drive, and a new drive. So the gears that let go, if that’s what happened, where oem from 2003. Not really bad for having 1000 hp or so in front of them. Can’t say I’m a crappy driver.
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by zx1421

thank you for drawing this up for me. I spoke to Aaron at Max Machine, they made a tool to yank it out, modded slide hammer, so I’m going to stop messing with it. I think I’m goig to go with a standard Bravo case, with XR guts. Max makes a spanner nut that goes in the snout to allow XR parts. The standard bravo is much thicker in the snout area, then put in the steel tower. And whatever can be salvaged from my XR. I read the receipt, I only got new lower gears, my uppers where ok at rebuild. I had it gone through about 3-4 years ago, had the reverse gear swapped to drive, and a new drive. So the gears that let go, if that’s what happened, where oem from 2003. Not really bad for having 1000 hp or so in front of them. Can’t say I’m a crappy driver.
Yes, standard case is stronger in that area. But unless you have one with a steel tower in both the case and the top cap you are giving up more than you are gaining.
I agree, a crappy driver would not get 10 minutes with 1000 HP
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mbam
Yes, standard case is stronger in that area. But unless you have one with a steel tower in both the case and the top cap you are giving up more than you are gaining.
I agree, a crappy driver would not get 10 minutes with 1000 HP
Max Machine Worx bores out the case and installes thier steel tower, and suggested thier top cap, that has a steel insert for the bearing to ride on. I already have thier clutch shaft. I think none of this matters if a tooth breaks off, it’s got no place to go.
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:45 AM
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Sorry to hear about your drive after spending "all the money" at Teague on the motor deal. Good luck on the drive repair/rebuild..
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