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The drives should not lower or raise without the pump running due to check valves in the pump. If it does leak down then that is an internal leak
Start from scratch like the drive and pump were never installed. Look at all the trim lines on the manifold under the transom assembly. Make sure that both cylinders ends are attached to the same side of the manifold. Wondering if one of the cylinders are swapped because with line removed it still will not go down without help While it should not be necessary to bleed air, might want to try the procedure to see what happens https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...39b4f5d98e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e6d25d66d8.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...05cfd01d97.jpg |
Mark, after discussing w/you yesterday, I was thinking check valves.
Above poster says they’re in the pump. If there is debri in the “up” check valve, wouldnt that cause the drive to raise from thermal expansion from sun/heat on the black paint? |
Thanks for the great reply AllDodge (I'm a Dodge guy too) I'm going to crawl on the boat today and check on those things. I have to leave it to go back North in a week or so and coming back with my Cummins Dually to bring it North. Hopefully after the race in Marathon as I have a reservation at Baha Honda for the weekend.
If I were to disconnect the lines from the cylinder, should it drop freely? I had been thinking those pistons in the cylinders could be sticking and why it won't go down w/out help. I would doubt that would affect the raising... I will follow up. And thank you too Gary for taking time:) Hope to see you on the big lake this summer. Or that crazy little frog pond we both like. |
Just a bit of update. I disconnected the hoses at the pump and stood on the drive. It lowered smoothly and quickly. Made a mess in the bulge, as my catch can didn't..... According to the diagrams provided by Dodger the cyl lines are all correct and the same as the other side. I didn't disconnect at the cyls/manifold as I didn't have a good line wrench down here with me but I think this tells me pump/checks.
I can understand a check valve in the pump making the trouble with lowering by the pump alone but.... I can't buy the drive raising by expansion alone repeatedly. I had this problem in Ohio winters as well as FL winters. I appreciate the site and Your time. Thanks Mark |
Disconnected the lines at the pump and still had to stand on the drive for it to go down?
The drive should have started to drop as soon as the line was being loosened. The check vales are in the pump, there are none in the cylinders |
Yes, It did not drop on its own. Didn't take much weight from me but, didn't drop by itself. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Hooked up the lines w/out any bleeding for the heck of it an ran it out an in several time w/no issued other than a little squealing when lowering(assuming air) It would never retract like this on it's own for a long time. Maybe too much fluid in system? Wouldn't it blow out the cap?
Now to see if it raises on it's own again... Thanks for playing along ya'll https://photos.fife.usercontent.goog...-gm?authuser=0 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fa6479d819.png |
So far so good. Thanks again.
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