My mistake, you’re correct on the post labels. There was no spark at all when I bypassed from the power to the right post. It did spark when I accidentally hit the left post. I’ll search for the solenoid, it looks easy to replace.

Well, good news is that the down solenoid had a short and when I replaced it, it worked. However..... now the up doesn’t work. I don’t see a short, I used a light meter for that. I tried bypassing the up solenoid and this one DID click. So the solenoid can’t be bad, right? And is the trailer up button on the same system as the up solenoid? That’s still just clicking.....

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...79c46b148.jpeg

The trailer button bypasses the trim limit which is on the port side of the drive. In post 8 it is item "h"

With it clicking but not going up, then I would suspect the up relay is also the issue but could still be corrosion

Yeah, I did get a click when I bypassed the switch with the power wire. So what should I try cleaning off? The ground post?

The best test is a voltmeter. If you connect the meter probe to the relay and when its energized there should be no voltage drop. If there is a voltage drop then there is corrosion. If no drop then its the relay

I’m not sure how that was suppose to go but I had someone trim up while I checked the voltage (checked the up solenoid ground and power posts). It rose a little from 0 but not much. I’m really just starting to learn all about electrical issues so I’m not really that skilled at the moment.

If the positive meter probe is on any of the Red, Blue/White or Green/White wires and the negative probe is on the Black ground, there should be 12V on the wires when selected.

Selected meaning press up and Red and Blue/White wires should stay 12V

Pressing down, the Red and Green/White wires should stay 12V

Yeah, the voltage didn’t stay constant when trimmed up. Should I just replace the solenoid? It’s cheap and if I pull off the old one to clean it and it works, it’s still a 30 year old solenoid when I put it back in...

I'm not there, only testing can say if it needs replacing, but as you say its cheap, so maybe just replace

Well unlike the other solenoid, there’s no shorts in this one. I think it’s just a bad connection/corrosion. What else should I test? The strongest reaction I got was bypassing the switch, it makes me feel like there’s an issue with the switch going up.... however when I bypassed the switch, it still didn’t go up, only clicked. I can pickup a solenoid for like $13. I just find it odd that I ended up having trouble with going both down and up.