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Bravo 3 - Overheating ? Long Island
Hi. Newbie here. Trying to assess if I’m having an overheating issue in my 2003 Bravo 3 (1100 hours ). I believe somethings going on as lower unit oil overflows from oil reservoir when running over 4000rpms ( won’t otherwise ). I’ve owned engine and drive since new.
The only work done (2) years ago ( 120 hours ) was new u joint assembly was installed - I’m concerned the pre-load is too tight. When hand turning shaft ( out of fear ), it feels a little ‘grindy’, like I can feel the bearings turning. I’m looking for a top notch, honest, highly qualified mercruiser mechanic who knows his stuff - located on Long Island NY. I can deliver the drive... Thank you |
Have you tried a new drive lube reservoir cap??
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I’m replacing entire reservoir and cap. I’d hate to assume it’s that, put her in next year and have it happen again. Is there a way to test my current rez and cap ?
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Originally Posted by ABL1111
(Post 4769758)
I’m replacing entire reservoir and cap. I’d hate to assume it’s that, put her in next year and have it happen again. Is there a way to test my current rez and cap ?
To test the cap, drain the drive, and pressurize the drive (15 psi). you’ll have to make up a pressure tester. It’s pretty simple and cheap. Pickup a Schrader valve, tubing, fitting for drive drain, and bike pump with guage. Pressure will test whole system. Drive, tubing, bottle and cap. If you want the drive inspected, you will likely need to ship it out. AADS, max machine worx, etc. |
Oil looked perfect; green, like I just put it in.
I built a pressure tester a few yrs back when I found some oil in my bellows. Pressure tested perfectly while static. This is when my mechanic changed the u joint and seals - he said that the gear had no pre-load - he reset it. I feel this is the point, the paint started to blister on top of drive a little. Theoretically, when I pull the old oil reservoir, I could connect the 15psi to that and see how it goes ? Thoughts... |
Originally Posted by ABL1111
(Post 4769772)
Oil looked perfect; green, like I just put it in.
I built a pressure tester a few yrs back when I found some oil in my bellows. Pressure tested perfectly while static. This is when my mechanic changed the u joint and seals - he said that the gear had no pre-load - he reset it. I feel this is the point, the paint started to blister on top of drive a little. Theoretically, when I pull the old oil reservoir, I could connect the 15psi to that and see how it goes ? Thoughts... if your oil was over heating I would think you would see signs in the oil. We have had issues this year on new re builds. See pictures. New vs burnt oil. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cf109bcbd.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...baefa8d98.jpeg |
There is a guy in Suffolk that does drive work. I have never used him, but a few friends have and were happy with his work. I pmed you his info.
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Ready to focus on this. Need a drive guy. The guy in Suffolk retired :(
Looking for The Guy. Not just someone who is good or has 'done a few'... I will bring drive anywhere on LI for the right mechanic. Thank you, |
Originally Posted by ABL1111
(Post 4773230)
Ready to focus on this. Need a drive guy. The guy in Suffolk retired :(
Looking for The Guy. Not just someone who is good or has 'done a few'... I will bring drive anywhere on LI for the right mechanic. Thank you, do a search here on OSO...you will find many members using the same people. to name a few: AADS Machine Worx Teague mr gadgets Good luck |
I was having the same problem and it freaked me out as I had already blown the drive twice. I replaced the cap and it solved the problem.
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