Originally Posted by neva satisfied (Post 4273124)

I have a dumb question...With all this talk about adding multiple amps, is it ok to hook up the ground from a second amp to the ground of the first amp? Or do you need to run a completely independent ground to the second amp?

Originally Posted by airjunky (Post 4273073)

Looks like a triple engine fountain if that first pic is your boat.if its rigged for offshore redundancy. You should have 3 alts.charging 3 seperate batteries with the 3rd possibly being up closer to the cabin by the ac unit you have a big huge battery bank charger somewhere ive run them while gojng all the way live with the stereo problem is you will often pick up noise from the charger when its in full amp mode .if your cabin goodies exept backlighting take the genset it wouldnt be hard to flip flop some assigned battery wiring for bildge k plane ect to eng battery run your amps from locker battery if its on same side ...only use 1 power and ground cable to distribution block by amps . If your dead set on jl audio you heard it here first .2 300.4 for your 8 speaks and whatever for your sub . A 500.1 ,maybe 750.1 dont know what kind of sub you have . If you put a w3 w6 w7 in ther e

Originally Posted by pstorti (Post 4273042)

I agree with Tommy1005 better to have excess power than just enough, a single SD6 would be even better. 145w available to each speaker, and 585 to the sub, you may not need it all, but it's one amp instead of two and you certainly won't blow any speakers from distortion.

Originally Posted by HyFive578 (Post 4272814)

Can you really install that Iota unit in the engine room? Doesn't seem like it's suitable for that type of location..

Originally Posted by neva satisfied (Post 4273124)

I have a dumb question...With all this talk about adding multiple amps, is it ok to hook up the ground from a second amp to the ground of the first amp? Or do you need to run a completely independent ground to the second amp?

Originally Posted by HyFive578 (Post 4273131)

I'm connecting the ground from the battery and the grounds from the amps to a bus bar. I wouldn't daisy chain the grounds..

Originally Posted by ChargeIt (Post 4273230)

http://www.amazon.com/DLS-55-AUTOMAT...wer+supply+iq4

Iota is not spark shielded, however you can install it in your cabin with the amps and connect to the distribution block I will talk about below.
The 55amp is maximum of the cheaper options. They have a 75 and 90 (I personally use the 90). They take a $100 price jump from the others so I have to assume there is a significant change in durable internals from the 55 to 75. I have used 45/55 for others with two amps/two batteries. If you feel your system might grow (as I think you will because a single 10" IB sub pretty much sucks for cove partying IMO) you might go ahead and spend the extra 100 for long term durability and expansion if planning to keep the boat.
You want the IQ4 regulated sub-model for charging.





No bus bar is needed for this kind of (relatively) low power system.

1/0 power and ground is run from the battery bank up to amp install area. Large fuse 1-2' away from battery.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...s-fleks-kable/ Do not use the cheaper CCA given the anticipated future heavier load and salt environment.

Use a distribution block (I prefer fused) to split power to amps.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...bution-block-/
This unit will give you expansion and flexibility.

I would run a 10-12 ga power and ground directly to HU from this power source to avoid any ground loop (hum/hiss) issues. The switched power lead can stay as it is.
4 ga wire from distribution block to amps.
4 ga from power supply to distribution block.
Same wire referenced above in 4ga.

Think it is getting expensive? the 1/3 rule applies in audio. speakers 1/3, amps 1/3, power delivery 1/3. Or consider (in general) you will spend the same amount on speakers as you do amps as you do power delivery.

Batteries - yes, in general you need one standard battery per amp minimum. The bank is a power reservoir to draw from and 1 standard 31/27 series is not enough. In general, less larger batteries will be stronger than more smaller batteries. A single 8d or two 6v golf cart are better than a string of standard batteries.
IF those batteries are not "cool" enough for an open engine bay or you like to really romp in the rough which could break up standard battery plates; Stepping up your game to XS or Kinetic may fill the niche (and drain the wallet) A single HC3800 or XP3000 should cover you for now.

Originally Posted by Tommy1005 (Post 4273293)

I would assume the HU means head unit, only thing I could think of

Originally Posted by HyFive578 (Post 4273280)

What is "HU" that you are referring to? I get the distribution block to the amps... Are both the battery and the DLS unit hooked up to the distribution block? Any chance you could post a diagram?