You may know better then me, but those senders won't work on the Heavy Duty transom assembly (least not on the one I bought)
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/6511...vo-h-p-transom

Sorry I didn't catch the HD part. There is no solution for trim limit and HD transom without one of the newer digital engines where the trim is handled by the pcm.

That is specific to the HD transoms correct? The old analog trim sensors will fit on the smartcraft transom right? that's exactly what I'm trying to figure out.

My next question is setting the trim up to function properly. Can you elaborate on that a little please, your saying I can get rid of the trailer switch and just have full funtionality in the up\down buttons, correct?

The HD unit attaches the digital sender with a lever piece so it will move. The regular unit can have the digital sender attached directly to the gimbal ring directly.

My thought was you had a digital sender attached and wanted to know what was needed to use it with analog gauge. The part number listed above states it will work but somehow or another it has not, but does give me full motion without using the trailer function to go full up or down.

If you want to use the older analog senders, then remove the digital and install the analog ones as Bam has listed

Also as MikeS mentioned, you can just join the wires together in his post and don't both with installing anything extra

Yup, that sounds great, I'm just going to put the old analog sensors on it and forget about the guage.Thansk guys, I appreciate it !

Thoughts on bypassing the sensor completley and just running a rocker switch on the dast straight to the solinoids on the pump? How quickly does the trim move up\down? Durring normal operation, moving the drive down I'm sure I will feel it hit when it's all the way down. If I let off as soon as it's al the way down \ up will that be ok to run like that or will it hurt anything? My old OMC would "walk" up by it's self so I would have to trim down every once in a while durring operation. I don't expect that to be the case here, I'm reall yjust wondering if it will hurt anything due to my reaction releasing power (a switch) rather than the limit switch cutting power at the right position.

thoughts?

Don't know about your boat but I can hear the pump, except when running. Have turndowns so when idling the boat is quite. If your open exhaust all the time I'm thinking you may not know when going slow without looking to the stern to see water movement.

If trim is up to much and throttle is applied it can damage things, and just idling around if trimmed to high is ruff on U joints. So long as the trim switch and relays don't hang I don't see much of an issue

My exhaust is pretty loud, I'm almost positive I wouldn't be able to hear the trim pump going. I don't want the hydraulic pump pushing the drive up and down and maxing it out. I'm just going to put he analog sensors on it and run it thru a rocker switch on the dash rather than the buttons on my throttle. (Just because my throttle lever if pretty hammered. ) So I should be able to get the analog sensors mounted on the smatcraft drive, and calibrate them like normal with the exception of the trailer button which I want to bypass so I have full range of motion from limit to limit from the sensors.
That all sounds corrent yeah?

Yes, that should work

thanks bud, I really appreciat all the help.