Im gonna use that seacast stuff,then glass over it,check out that site and look at the technical section,looks reag good and i have a sample of it,very intense ,alot stronger than plywood,easier to use and about the same cost,but alot less work!!! tripps

Tripps,

I read in previous threads that it doesn't have the strength of plywood. Are you sure it is the way to go with your boat?? What size & type is it??

sea cast is in fact strong. how ever in for some applications it does not have the ability to with stand structual distress under different thicknesses.
basically the difference between using kevlar or crabon fiber.
one has less flexability , but more strength. the other has ability to give with out using or loosing strength.

Thats correct,thats why they say to use cloth,resin,also,and im gonna fabricate some nice ti bars to help it out with the 2 mercs and bracket tripps

got any pics of it??

not yet the transom is down to the glass and wood that is stuck 2 it that i will be sandin off,ill take some pics soon tripps

Thanks Tripps. I look forward to them. Right now I'm trying to sort out my coosa order from the distributor here. I'm looking at a combo of 1" & 3/4" 8' x 4' panels & cutting down to size. The guy also asked what glass weight will I be using for the inner transom skin? Does anyone know what glass weight Wellcraft used on their Scarab inner transoms??

Ok guys, if you can't answer that one, what about the most valuable tool you can't do without when performing a rebuild on transom/stringers? Does a sabre/reciprocating saw prove to be the best or crowbar?? What is it that makes this job easier??

A reciprocating saw is a must.

to cut the transom glass from the inside,i used a 4.5 grinder that has a very thin wheel.045 to be exact,made for steel,get them from a welding supply store,cuts right thru,i took off the guard,and be carefull!!!. some prying is nessarry,but depends on the job,i just cut and pulled the crap out ,a sawzall is a must,with a long blade tripps