Bottom Paint
#11
Yep. Baja seemed to think they could drill drain holes (the ones that drain the swim platform outer corner cavities) and also notch the ends of the stingers for draining without sealing the raw wood. The drain holes were also located approx 6" above the bottom of the cavities, so that would make for a cavity full of water before it would even drain out the holes, but then, Baja didn't seal the bottom of the cavities either, so all water just soaked the transom wood. Pics are in my "Partial Transom replacement" thread. Thanks, the arm is doing fine. Still raw in the worst spots, with new skin growing by the day.
I read about the Peel Away I &II, but understood it to mean you apply a thick layer of stripper in a small section at a time, cover it with the plastic, wait for hrs, then peel it off. Seemed like a very long process?? Have also read were alot of people that have used it still had to do alot of sanding to get all the paint off.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#12
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Location: St. Joseph, MI
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They say easy off they aren't lying! That is crazy!
I have antifouling paint on my scarab and have contacted a few sources to quote removal. I have been quoted anywhere from $1900 to $8000 for the job. This is just a sight unseen general quote.
Lets say I use that peel away product and get down to the gel coat. What am I looking at for a best case and a worst case for the condition? Best case I would assume some elbow grease and buffing compound and I'm good to go. How bout worst case?
I have antifouling paint on my scarab and have contacted a few sources to quote removal. I have been quoted anywhere from $1900 to $8000 for the job. This is just a sight unseen general quote.
Lets say I use that peel away product and get down to the gel coat. What am I looking at for a best case and a worst case for the condition? Best case I would assume some elbow grease and buffing compound and I'm good to go. How bout worst case?
#13
Worst case is it was very well prepped before the bottom paint was applied. In other words it was thoroughly sanded with something in the neighborhood of 80 grit. it will require a lot of sequentially finer sanding and buffing to bring it completely back. I will say this its very rare that anyone sands it properly usually they just scuff it and hope for the best. When i stripped the bottom paint on my Scorpion it had one of those high tech speed cote type anti fouling paints on it and it really wasnt to bad. Mine was heavily weathered so most of it was gone anyway. Stripped it off with e-z-off and some solvent for a final cleaning and it looked pretty good. Sad part is i ended up keeping it in the water the following year and went back to the bottom paint (saw no speed difference)
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
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08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#14
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I stripped my hull mostly with the zip strip paint stripper for fiberglass I went through two gallons. I also tried Interlux's stripper for 3x the price, which didn't work at all. The best stuff I used was the west marine stripper that comes in a white plastic tub. I let all of them cure for as long as i could and right as it looked as it was drying I took a strong powerwasher with a roto-tip and blasted most off... It was messy to say the least. I've never tried ez off, but it sounds like its both cheaper and works better. After I removed 90% of the paint from the bottom I wet sanded with 320, 400, 600, 800 buffed with 3m super duty and finished it off with finesse it. When I was done it looked like new. It took about 30+ hours on my Formula 242 but well worth it IMO.