sparky24

good work

dereknkathy

one thing a friend did which i think is a good idea. he laid transom in place dry and made sure it was all sized and located where he wanted it. then he drilled some of the stuff that goes thru transom from outside thru orig holes. then when he installed it for real put bolts thru and bolted it together. worked as alignment jig and clamps...obviously for anybody changing drive cutout you don't wanna use drive mount holes for this, but you could punch a couple holes thru middle of planned new cutout and thru a piece of wood mounted on outside of transom..the 2 big tie-down hooks on outer upper corners are also good ref points too.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

careful with doing the drive cutout and bolt holes, even the slightes bit out of square can throw off the center line by a bunch when you get down to the skeg. I like to true up the template on my own independent of the oroginal holes. I've had production built boats that were off upwards of a half inch or so.

good idea to use much of the existing holes (exhaust, tabs, etc) but use cation. I use pickup truck load bars and drywall screws/fender washers to gently and evenly pull the new transom into the bond. You just have to be creative in how you do it, may be some combination of all mentioned above.



these are cheap and handy

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-...bar-66172.html


theres a ratcheting one that a little better I just didnt have a chance to find it

murfman

Thanks for all the tips! Glassdave, I'm going to call you tomorrow to
See if I can meet up with you to purchase some VE from you, and whatever else you can supply me with. I'll make the road trip to Toledo hopefully in the next 2 weeks.

murfman

Just wanted to say thanks to Glassdave. Drove out to Toledo today and picked up
My supplies along with a bunch of knowledge and pointers. This Maggy is gonna be better than she was new.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

i figured you'd be done with it by now . . . . no prob enjoy the box--full-o-fun you took outta here

murfman

The fun has begun!!! I am just going to update my thread in the Magnum Forum from now on, I don't want to double post.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/m...ml#post4185155

scarab50

question for glassdave im not sure when u do a transom with 3 layers of plywood do u use corobond just on the wood to the inside glass on the transom or use it between each sheet instead of mat and resin just confused reading all the treads on this subject thks for any help still grinding away glass and rotten wood wow what fun

sparky24

i could be wrong but i think that the corebond between each layer would be better, but way more expensive in materials and also maybe difficult to get the right thickness.

Maybe dave has a thought on this, i find that the vinylester takes a really long time to cure when it is sandwiched like that. Maybe getting a gallon of polyester would be better for sandwiching the mat. The guy from ATC also insisted that i use polyester resin for hot coating as he had a problem once with vinylester taking too long to cure when it was sandwiched


1/32 is the recommended thickness for the corebond, with 1/8 being the limit on the ATC product

scarab50

so u use mat between the sheets with resin I thought corebond was used without mat especially on the wood to inside of transom bare fiberglass what I am saying is that u don't use corebond with mat do I have that right and out of curiosity are the old scarabs poly or vinylester 1989 vintage