mattress done and Formula parking
#11
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From: 1000 Islands
Originally Posted by dukenrock
Rip,
I'm getting ready to build a 40x60 at my lake house and keep the boats there. I'm in the process of geting bids on stick built and steel buildings. I'd personally prefer a stick built. Any input on pros and cons? What do you think the bids will come in at. I think 30k for a steel without any frills.
I'm getting ready to build a 40x60 at my lake house and keep the boats there. I'm in the process of geting bids on stick built and steel buildings. I'd personally prefer a stick built. Any input on pros and cons? What do you think the bids will come in at. I think 30k for a steel without any frills.
with the price of steel...a good old fashioned pole barn would come in cheapest I'll bet for dead storage...
#12
I want a nice building I can tinker in all year. We have cold winters so I need good insulation factor. I will be storing the Formula, a pontoon boat, mastercraft ski boat, & jet skis. I also want a bathroom in it since I'll have a refridgerator filled with beer in there too. I plan on heating it to 55+. Nice job on the cushions!!!
Originally Posted by Rippem
are you going "garage" or "storage building"?
with the price of steel...a good old fashioned pole barn would come in cheapest I'll bet for dead storage...
with the price of steel...a good old fashioned pole barn would come in cheapest I'll bet for dead storage...
#14
Originally Posted by dukenrock
I'd personally prefer a stick built. Any input on pros and cons? What do you think the bids will come in at. I think 30k for a steel without any frills.
Over this last year, I raised my 30X40 stick building 40" (5 coarses of concrete block), then added 30X30 addition for about $25,000. This included permit fees, insulation, raising of the existing front section, (2) new 11'6"H X 10'W garage doors, and all labor fees for masonary, framing, roofing, and concrete footer/floor for the addition.
#15
I'm already prepared to build it, just wasn't sure of the $$$. Figured 30-40K. I'm going to do the electrical and insulating, then sub out the final interior finish. I'm sure after it's up and paid for I'll be happy I did it. Any recommendations on steel vs. wood? What's the finished interior height?
Originally Posted by RedDog382
Kevin,
Over this last year, I raised my 30X40 stick building 40" (5 coarses of concrete block), then added 30X30 addition for about $25,000. This included permit fees, insulation, raising of the existing front section, (2) new 11'6"H X 10'W garage doors, and all labor fees for masonary, framing, roofing, and concrete footer/floor for the addition.
Over this last year, I raised my 30X40 stick building 40" (5 coarses of concrete block), then added 30X30 addition for about $25,000. This included permit fees, insulation, raising of the existing front section, (2) new 11'6"H X 10'W garage doors, and all labor fees for masonary, framing, roofing, and concrete footer/floor for the addition.
#16
Think you can handle the electrical by yourself?
Ceiling height is 12'4". Pulled me down to 11'6" on finished door size. Wanted to go up another block, but I was limited to 20' peak height by zoning. So much fun to deal with zoning/building inspection ... if a couple inches over, they could have made me tear the whole building down!
I guess steel would be nice if one could afford it, but I wanted to match existing structure and construction. I did 2X6 on 24" centers to get higher R value insulation. Probably should have gone 18" centers for more strength, but I doubt it will fall down. Just thinking about an overhead hoist to pull motors with!
Still need to finish electrical outlets and drywall.
Ceiling height is 12'4". Pulled me down to 11'6" on finished door size. Wanted to go up another block, but I was limited to 20' peak height by zoning. So much fun to deal with zoning/building inspection ... if a couple inches over, they could have made me tear the whole building down!
I guess steel would be nice if one could afford it, but I wanted to match existing structure and construction. I did 2X6 on 24" centers to get higher R value insulation. Probably should have gone 18" centers for more strength, but I doubt it will fall down. Just thinking about an overhead hoist to pull motors with!
Still need to finish electrical outlets and drywall.
Last edited by RedDog382; 06-12-2005 at 11:06 PM.
#17
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From: 1000 Islands
Originally Posted by offthefront
Hey Rip .... how's the new pad thickness compared to the old one ? looks sweet .... I just wonder about clearance to the ceiling ?
the new mattress is flush with the center seating backrest. I didn't really think of this beforehand...
glad I didn't go 6" of foundation foam, or it would be above the seatback and look goofy. I lucked out, it looks like it belongs in terms of height. The V-berth "well" in the 353/382 is deep.
This is an awesome upgrade for those who really do overnight regular on the boat!
#18
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From: 1000 Islands
Originally Posted by Poorsche
Here ya go--
http://www.bigboytoy.com/photogallery.html
http://www.bigboytoy.com/
Rates aren't posted but they'll email to you.
http://www.bigboytoy.com/photogallery.html
http://www.bigboytoy.com/
Rates aren't posted but they'll email to you.
there won't be that kind of money here, but the idea is similar.
#19
Wonder how that foam would work on seat cushions on "couchs" --the foam in mine is original and as hard as concrete so I'm gonna redo it and upholster with Ultraleather from Majilite.
What are thoughts about the memory foam on seating area's?
What are thoughts about the memory foam on seating area's?
#20
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From: 1000 Islands
It would certianly soften up the effect. Though your better off I think to go with a single density new foam. Foam has come along ways in the last few years as far as choices and life expectancy.
check out foamorder.com
wealth of info about foams and applications
check out foamorder.com
wealth of info about foams and applications


