What a great site this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#11
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 36
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FIRE, think about it, you are running in the Gulf in 3 or 5 footers and taking some good licks when a motor shuts down, well, you stop and try to raise the cover and the thing blows up because a fuel leak has developed and the trolling motor connector that you installed was just about to seperate but was close enough together to cause an arch. Yeah you have a blower that evacuates all the fumes but not raw gas, and who remembers to turn the darn thing on anyway, I know I am guilty, you???
I know, whats the chances, but it could happen.
I know, whats the chances, but it could happen.
#12
About the same chance that the main electrical plug on the engine could start one, or an arcing connection on the alternator, a loose wire on a blower even.
But then that's why the connector I bought has a twist to lock connection.
I always try to make things fool proof....so it takes a better class of fool to foul things up.
But then that's why the connector I bought has a twist to lock connection.
I always try to make things fool proof....so it takes a better class of fool to foul things up.
#13
Originally Posted by captaindave
Poorshe what you mentioned is different from what Iggy posted but you better make sure that the underground lug that you referred to has four individual circuits and does not have continuity between all of the holes in that one lug like I think it does, you would have to have one lug for the + and one for the - . What Iggy posted is a wire nut with die-electric grease in the barrel of it to prevent moisture and corrosion, they work very good and can easily be taken off and used again. My personal opinion, all of these will work; but the trolling motor connector would probably be the way to go, out of the three mentioned. The best thing to do would be to get some butt splices the correct size and shoot some die-electric grease in it and crimp it on.
I've had nothing but trouble with the crimp/heat-shrink connectors and that damned hatch lifter. Next one is gonna be from API--hydraulic.
I did see those di-electric things and almost bought them.
In long term I'm gonna put that relay box in that I bought last year from Rex Marine---
#14
Originally Posted by captaindave
Poorshe what you mentioned is different from what Iggy posted but you better make sure that the underground lug that you referred to has four individual circuits and does not have continuity between all of the holes in that one lug like I think it does, you would have to have one lug for the + and one for the - . What Iggy posted is a wire nut with die-electric grease in the barrel of it to prevent moisture and corrosion, they work very good and can easily be taken off and used again. My personal opinion, all of these will work; but the trolling motor connector would probably be the way to go, out of the three mentioned. The best thing to do would be to get some butt splices the correct size and shoot some die-electric grease in it and crimp it on.
I've had nothing but trouble with the crimp/heat-shrink connectors and that damned hatch lifter. Next one is gonna be from API--hydraulic.
I did see those di-electric things and almost bought them.
In long term I'm gonna put that relay box in that I bought last year from Rex Marine---
#15
Do you guys lower the ram all the way til it bottoms and makes the ratchet sound ? I watch the hatch and just lower it enough to get the weight off the lift .....haven't had any problems ........ yet ....
#16
offthefront, I run mine the same way. But all it takes is my grandson to grab the switch, trying to be helpful, and run it down further. That's how mine gets jammed everytime. I haven't had it jam in the up position...yet.
#17
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
I do the same thing, I watch for the hatch to "settle flat" then let go of the toggle. Last time I put it down I got distracted by something and went too far. But, I know how to do the "Iggy-fix" now.
#19
Originally Posted by Iggy
offthefront, I run mine the same way. But all it takes is my grandson to grab the switch, trying to be helpful, and run it down further. That's how mine gets jammed everytime. I haven't had it jam in the up position...yet.
I got one of those ....3 years old and faster than lightening ........can push every button and open every door before you know it ....
#20
I did the "Iggy-fix" on my hatch once so far this season. Does anybody know if the after market lifts have some kind of a limit built in so this won't happen?
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