1) Take the mirror off the wall in the head. If it is 2-way taped it’s a real pain to remove without breaking the mirror. If you break it, Formula gets about $150 for a new one. The new one will mount with grommets and screws the same as your hatch mirrors. I had one cut to fit and drilled holes in it to remount. (Yep, I broke it.)

2) Using blue painters tape, I centered the TV bracket on the mirror in the cabin, checking for level and square and marked the holes right on the tape. It's a real good time to see how high you can go with the TV. It depends on how much room you need to slide it on the mount (from the top down). I used a solid mount by the way. The valance with the light MAY get in the way. Instead of removing the valance, I decided to go as high as the bracket would allow.

3) Once you are satisfied with how high you can go, time to drill thru the mirror. I drilled a pilot hole first all the way thru the mirror, plywood and the head wall (where the mirror used to be in the head) for the four holes for my TV mount. After you go thru the mirror, you hit plywood, which the mirror is attached to, and then an air space of about ½” to ¾” and then the head wall. Before drilling them to size to bolt through the mirror and plywood, I took a 1 ½" hole saw in the head compartment and using the pilot holes, cut the 4 - 1 ½" holes JUST THRU THE FIBERGLASS in the head compartment.

4) Finish drilling your mirror and plywood to size. You can now thru-bolt the mount to the mirror and plywood. I used stainless bolts with fender washers, nylocks and locktite against the plywood thru the 1 ½” access holes in the head. Don’t over tighten and you won’t crack the mirror. Make them snug though, so any bouncing over waves doesn’t allow it to crack. I cut off any additional length of the bolts with a dremel tool so the would not come in contact with the mirror once it gets reinstalled.

5) I took the speaker cover off under the valance and removed the speaker on the port side for access to run the power cord. While the speaker cover was off, I had my “Corian Guy” make up a pair of new ones with a hole in the port side just past the speaker for the wiring. A little tricky to fish the NEW power cable across the ceiling and over the top of the head compartment, but using a coat hanger and the four holes in the wall, plus removing the small piece of trim above the head door inside of the head compartment, I managed. I am only using this TV with the shore power you can run an inverter or whatever you prefer. I wired it directly into the 110v breaker for the outlet above the fridge in the closet. Hid the transformer in the valance, and used a 10 gauge flat appliance extension cord for power wire.

6) Slide the TV over the mount and locktite the two set screws at the bottom of the mount, plug in the power wire and cable TV connection. I also ran a cable wire from the TV to the trunk by the shore power. Remount the mirror in the head compartment, reinstall the speaker and cover. That’s it!

Dave

pics .....

Thanks to everyone for the responses and pics. Mike, I like the way the tv is kind of tucked into the corner. Looks like it would make for a better viewing angle. What do your support brackets look like? I read your previous post, are they a loop type bracket or two "strips" of metal?

Exactly .....when there's a big crowd in the cabin and someone is on the far corner you can see the screen fine ..

It does work well though ..... If your faceing the Mirror the bracket goes from left to right about 6" ( this side bolts to the mirror) then comes straight out (90*) about 3" then 45's back toward the Starboard side about 7" ( LCD bolted to 7" side) .... Its Stainless about 1/8" thick ....very solid .....Sorry about the quality of the pics ...It was at night and the cover was on ..... If you need it I will get some better pics and exact measurements ......m