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Old 01-12-2012 | 11:25 AM
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I'm going to design and have diamond plate aluminum sheet metal skins fabricated. My two steps are the same. I wonder if they are all the same. Both hinges are the same too. I might make some extras if someone else is interested?
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Old 01-12-2012 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PhantomChaos
...My two steps are the same. I wonder if they are all the same. Both hinges are the same too. I might make some extras if someone else is interested?
My port side step was shorter to accomodate the water heater, but I suspect that the starboard steps might all be the same.

Neat idea to rebate the hinges and then hide them under the new diamond plate....
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Old 01-12-2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by C_Spray
My port side step was shorter to accomodate the water heater, but I suspect that the starboard steps might all be the same.

Neat idea to rebate the hinges and then hide them under the new diamond plate....
Chuck.....you have an odd boat! Beside.....you already have this done! Thanks for the hinge idea!

Is that you call it? Rebate?
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Old 01-13-2012 | 07:13 AM
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Wouldn't Stainless plate last longer and look better for longer? Probably not that much heavier in the grand sceme of thins?

Was the end graim on that wood not glassed over?
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Old 01-13-2012 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Audiofn
Wouldn't Stainless plate last longer and look better for longer? Probably not that much heavier in the grand sceme of thins?

Was the end graim on that wood not glassed over?
I would love stainless......got a source?

Glass on the end cuts......hmmm. Hard to tell. Maybe it wore off.
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Old 01-13-2012 | 01:05 PM
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Okay I've looked around. The stainless diamond plate thickness material is minimum of 1/8" thick!! I'm not clear how they measure that though.......from the bottom to the top of the "diamond" of the main portion of the material.

Also.....doesn't look like it comes polished but only dull.
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Old 01-13-2012 | 10:16 PM
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And you will NEVER be able to form 1/8" stainless around the curved front edges.

Clear powdercoat does the trick. Mine's held up for four seasons so far.
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Old 01-14-2012 | 10:47 PM
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Chuck why can't you just use a metal break?
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Old 01-14-2012 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by C_Spray
And you will NEVER be able to form 1/8" stainless around the curved front edges.

Clear powdercoat does the trick. Mine's held up for four seasons so far.
I do not plan on forming the metal DOWN in that 5" radius area.

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Old 01-15-2012 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Audiofn
Chuck why can't you just use a metal break?
I used a break for the bends on the back edge, since it was straight. To bend it around the radiused areas on the front outer corners, I annealed the aluminum with a torch, then used a leather mallet to form it around the wooden base.
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