Well, yes....yes it was. :)

I 100% agree that there is a huge difference in a kevlar, hand build 382 vs a line boat. I also agree that the stainless insert can and will become loose over time, since this is not a static joint, and as you point out has nothing to do with the hull / deck joint. The screws under the stainless DO penetrate the hull deck joint and should remain tight (as I suspect yours have). We are all huge Formula fans, and this doesn't sway me one bit. It's a bummer that I have to deal with it, but the reality is it's not that big a deal. I've been on board other "offshore" boats on Lake Erie that have literally fallen apart on one moderately rough trip from PIB to Sandusky. We watched a fiberglass swim platform sink to the bottom after one semi hard hit :eek:

I think we are all on the same page here, hard to show tone and emotion over the interwebz.

As Jriggs pointed out, I'm slightly disappointed that the advertised every 18" thru bolting is more like every 18' thru bolting, but so be it :p

I looked at and had surveyed a 1999 Poker run edition (kevlar) that had a grid failure that the surveyor pointed out to me. About a third of the way aft on the port side. This boat was beaten up pretty badly though and had probably been hit as it had a hull/deck failure in the same area as the grid failure. This one shouldn't be used as an example of anything other than to say if you hit something hard enough it will break. Shame as it had clean looking Mercury Bulldog 540's and the topsides didn't look bad.

I just found this thread and find it curious about water leaks. I have a 2004 370ss bought new. My cabin was getting wet in the under seat storage compartments in cabin when boat was in its first season. Trenton marine resealed the rub rail, not sure what product but think silicone, and havent noticed the problem in 9 years. I will be checking my Bond in the spring!!

C'mon guys. Someday we will meet up at a event. This grinding on each other serves no purpose. I get a little grumpy when this thread is taken as formula bashing. It never has been and never will be. I completely understand Formulas silence here. Can you imagine any manufacturer in today's Litigation obsessed world taking this issue on publicly. The Factory support for me has been really helpful. If it were a fountain there would be nobody to call. Not pointing especially to fountain but many others have fallen on the sword. This issue IS NOT A BIG DEAL! Its a way easier fix than say a leaky transom or rotten stringers. Good grief, Lighten up

Thanks

Kevlar382
I just don't understand why said you dislike this thread? It's informative and about a serious safety issue that occurs on lots of boats. How could you wish this information wouldn't be proliferated? The best reason I can come up with is because you're a huge Formula fan? I'm just trying to make sense of you postings.

I must be special, because when I call Fountain they pick up the phone.

My boat isn't doing it. None of mine have, so I didn't realize there were many that did. What do you want me to do, tell you it is even through it isn't just to make you happy. You implied that I'm not vary smart because I don't take my boat apart so I explained to you why I know it isn't coming apart, I don't know what else to tell you. I'm not saying none are having a problem just because mine isn't.

KV382 I wish was a lucky as you, but like Artie stated this is a fairly easy repair and not expensive at all ($100 to $200 in materials). I have owned (2) Formulas through the years and have been very happy with them overall. I think that on my particular boat, the thru hull connections are too far apart. They are not every 18" as they should be, but are more like 36" to 72" apart in spots, and that is why the plexus joint failed.

Like I said in a one of the post before, I also through bolted the white part of the rub rail where I could. I was able to get just about all the way around the boat except a few spots by the head. My boat has so many through bolts Im surprised in floats ( If I remember right those were about 4 or 6 in. apart ) . I also through bolted the windshield where I could get at it. There were a few by the dash I couldn't get at. Looking back I wish we would have bolted that on before the deck went on the boat, although if I ever would have to get the windshield off I would have been screwed. Another thing we did was instead of just filling the grid with foam we filled all the empty spaces in between the grid before the liner went on and then also filled the gaps between the liner and the hull. ( The area behind the lounge seats to the front ). My 1998 was kind of hollow sounding compared to my SR1s, this really helped with that. I taped about a 1/4 in above and below the seam and put silicone all the way around it, then bolted the rub rail on. Again, I know there were no spots that didn't have Plexus.
We started out with a F2 Kevlar hull and then put a full cockpit and cabin in it. It has a normal dash and companion door. We put double latches on all the cabinets and made the brackets for them as long as they could be instead of the way they come. I do from time to time snug up the bolts that go into the floor that hold the cabinets. None of this was done because of trouble with the 1998, just thought I would try to build the best 382 I could. It has boxes, 380s, and a one off paint job.
Im sorry that I ever commented on this thread, but having two really nice 311s and two really nice 382s, I never would have thought so many people would have been having this problem. Ok, that's my story, good luck to you guys and be safe.

Sorry, one more thing. The piece of L shaped alum. that runs behind the back seat was also through bolted about every 6 in instead of just on the ends. To keep the weight down it doesn't have a gen. and just has a Porti-Potty with dock said pump out. It does have a TV and a/c. Ok, I'm done

That thing sounds like it could pass for an Ice Breaker!!!!!!!

DUDE! Where was this post two pages ago!? Sounds like you addressed all the shortcomings we are dealing with right now. Riggs and I are planning to add the through bolts where we can. I am worried about how much I will be able to reach behind the head. That's where my problems start. Forward of that area, my bolts are every 18" or so.

Ditto, I am going to add thru hull connections where mine are missing plus I'm thinking about adding a microwave too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A buddy of mine has one on his cruiser and he can make popcorn. :ernaehrung004:

Sorry about the fountain comment, I did not know they got through BK in one piece. Congrats to them.

I didn't want to sound like I was bragging about my boat but it seemed like the only way I could convince Hogie Roll that I know my boat pretty well and that its not coming apart. And yes I'm a very big "fan" of Formula boats. The Porter family and there people have been really good to me. Also there TAG team is second to none. Not tying to take anything away from anybody else. There are a lot of really nice performance boats out there being built by some very talented people.

I agree 100%

I ave the same issues with separation.The adhesive flakes off. It didnt bond to the glass at all. Im prepping it now so when it warms up I can apply new adhesive. Anyone know roughly how many tubes of Plexus and is there a better brand to use.
Thanks

Send pics.

Ill try and do it tomorrow

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536790[/ATTACH]
HMMM not sure if Im doing this right

Ok Loading the pic worked. So in this pic the plexus is come apart. Whats left on there peels off pretty easy. Theres about an 8' span on both sides without any through bolt but the rest is every 18" or so. So if this stuff worked right I should have glass shredding instead of this ? The way it peels off reminds me of when you caulk something on a dusty surface then after it dries it comes right off. If I hit it with adhesive then through bolt the crap out of it and screw where the Head is and other areas I cant get to I dont see it moving. I can add a sealant after its bolted in case the adhesive splits again and it should be watertight
Thoughts

Formula told me it will take approx. 4 tubes of Plexus to re-do the entire boat (this is for a 382 though).

Thanks for the input. Did you do yours yet ?

No, my boat is in cold storage, so I am going to wait till April time frame when it is a little warmer.

The plexus will be WAY stronger than the through bolts. I see the bolts as a assembly aid. If both surfaces are clean and the plex is the correct squeeze it will not come apart! Do not over squeeze as you would assembling furniture. The plex must be left in the joint to chemically penetrate the fiberglass. Good luck.

Spring time! Check your boat! :)

It will be interesting to see how many boats actually have bonding issues. The more the word gets out the more owners will be investigating...

I m on post 155 of 30 some pages on this thread. I have read all the posts to this point. I can not believe the amount of incompetence on part of Formula & there avoidance to take responsibility. And once again it boils down to the almighty dollar. I m in the market for a formula. Just by the evasive response of there reply is enough for me to look elsewhere. I hope as I read on they take in part responsibility. Wow,this is unbelievable. :eekdrop:One of the most important processes in boat building & the preliminary failure rate looks poor to say the least.

Formula was very reasonable when jriggs and I worked with them to fix our boats last year. They somewhat stonewalled at first, but in hindsight that's understandable. The reality is is isn't a huge fix, believe it or not, and they made the process painless. Cost me about a $100 bill, a case of beer (well 5 cases if you count what riggs drank :lolhit:) and a day of my life. No big deal.

After reading this and owning 3 Formulas and my current Fountain, I feel my Fountain is a much more durable boat. The hull and deck are glassed together and Plexus or no Plexus, I'm a lot more confident. Also, the Fountain uses foam coring and two layers of glass in the hull and decks and I can say my deck on the 38 is a lot stronger than any of my Formulas. That said, the fit and finish on the Formula is heads and shoulders above the Fountain. I guess I can put up with a little less fit and finish given the structural integrity of my 38. Now all I have to worry about is my transom and stringers rotting :(

I'm in the same boat, so to speak. Having owned 2 Sr-1's all the while dreaming of the fastech. A friend of mine said he thinks this is what happens when people think their boat is indestructible then push them past their limits. I'm on the fence. I would be more likely to agree if other brands of boats were experiencing similar issues.

I almost can't wait to have to do this to my boat after having to do what I am doing to my engine bay! :poopoo:

I would not agree with that statement in all cases. My cap popped loose this summer at the marine head location while trying to pull up a stuck anchor. It is a short area about 20" long and it popped with strain on the front cleat where the anchor was tied. No speed involved and I didn't think the boat was strained hard enough to do that but it did. I understand Formula is very helpful with support if a person is going to do the repairs. I expect to contact Formula for the info etc and fix mine.

We have hammered the boat on Lake Erie and a poker run here at home and it did just fine in it's own running dynamics. Strange that this twist popped it loose.

This is an old post and I post this for future members to read. This is definitely a gargantuan safety issue. Something of this matter should be told to the USCG in a Safety Defect Report. I believe the matter would have been looked at ASAP. If the CG found cause, they would have made Formula issue a recall and cost the owner nothing.

This goes for any defect an owner finds that deals in the safety of vessel and crew.

Consumer Safety Defect Report

Hi all. Thought I would bring this back to the front. I am getting inquires from a few Formula owners that have found this issue on their boats. AGAIN this is not a Formula bash. This is a informational thread. Its a relatively easy fix in the scheme of things. Thanks

I don’t think this applies to a 206LS. Only newer boats with a grid floor system.

ph1971, I agree. I have had conversations with a few mid west 382 owners this year regarding this issue.

Hi All!

Sorry to beat a dead horse with this one, but I am looking at purchasing a 2003 Formula 382 Fastech and another OSO member in the general boating discussion thread referred me to this issue with the Formulas. A couple of questions:

• I'm getting the boat surveyed next week before finalizing the transaction. Is this something a normal survey would catch, or should I tell the surveyor to keep an eye out for this?
• Earlier in the thread this sounded like something that had to go to a shop and was a doable, but relatively involved repair, but the last couple pages make it sounds as if this is a relatively easy fix that I can do myself if it is a problem. My family is in the auto body business and I am pretty hands on with things. Is this something I could do myself? Has anybody put together instructions for doing this?

Thanks in advance! Hoping to join the Formula family soon!

The telltale sign that any boat has this issue is that the rubrail will be loose (mostly midship). Grab a hold of it and if it moves up and down at all, chances are there is the bonding problem above. The screws holding the rubrail to the hull go through the bonded joint (thru bolted) and if it has separated these screws snap and allow the rubrail to be loose. I repaired mine myself (1997 382). Not technically difficult but labor intensive and necessitates getting to nuts (from the thru bolts) on the inside of the boat. Some are VERY difficult to get at and require taking parts of the cuddy apart. If you decide to buy the boat and it has the separation issue be prepared to do some work (mine took about a week) or pay someone to do it. There is plenty of info on the repair on this thread. Good Luck!