Any pics of WD systems on your big boat trailers???

Only have a couple distant shots of the Eagle/382 trailer back in Ohio from file photos. The trunion bars are not attached in the first photo, but it does show the WD head. The second photo shows the trunion bars attached, but not the head. These are 1000# bars. Brackets clamp on the channel on the tongue of the trailer. I can shoot a few of the 260 SS/Prestige trailer thats out here in Vegas when I get a little time. Working my backside off until next Thursday ...

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...tch-balls.html

Some info from Reese website very similar to what I use:

http://www.reese-hitches.com/product...nion_Bars,7903

One needs a Pole Tongue Adapter for putting a WD system on a boat trailer:


http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...se/RP3280.html
(The one I had.)

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...e/RP58393.html
(Was not on market when I was shopping.)

More info here:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...g/viewall.html

Not according to the Ford towing guide. The max towing number they provide is when using a WD hitch, otherwise it is a max tow rating of 8500. The GCVFR is from typing on a cracked iPad screen.

What years did the tow behind capacity exceed 12,500?
My 96 diesel F350 crew cab is listed at 12,500 bumper/receiver hitch and 17,500 5th wheel/goose neck.

I have towed surge and electric/hydraulic both.
Surge is ok if you always brake in a straight line.
But if you get into curved roads or worst case scenario- trailer trying to pass the truck around the corners-- :-0
The electric over hydraulic are best.
The straight electrics are ok but I hear they don't survive well if dunked in the water.
The electric controller is great because you can "dial" the amount of braking that you need for the change in load. Plus you can select brakes on trailer without utilizing the brakes on the tow vehicle.
This ability is critical if the rear of vehicle would get into sand/gravel/oil covered road where the trailer tends to push the rear of the truck around.
SRW or DRW is preference.
Mine is DRW because the rear does not seem to sway in cross winds or in corners as much as SRW.
But if you have a DRW truck, the truck has to be loaded heavy enough for both the rear wheels to dig in when needed. Nothing slides or skips across cupped or unimproved roads as bad as a duelly without a load.