I think that's the route I'm going to go!

Thanks for the help all!

Dave

I thought you would diamond plate the whole bilge.

Isn't that what you did? Haha...


I was there today, but just to clean parts, no bilge work today. Ordered the Valspar hardner and am going the rust oleum way! I don't know if I'm going to do the whole thing or not yet. Going to take a better look at it. Maybe then I'll snap some shots!

Dave

you need to soap,rince,pressure wash,rince dry,sand the whole bilge,pressure wash again dry, apply adheision promoater then paint..or its going to look like the last idiot that did mine,,it flaked off so now im in their with the da..

since you didn't do it yourself it's hard to say what really went wrong.
sounds like laid on too thick (amazed how many people don't get the longevity and finish advantages of multiple if necessary thinner coats of anything) not degreased/clean enough, or done too cold.
or a combo.
to avoid the first one let me say it again...ACETONE THINNED!!!

I NEVER use Rustoleum straight up not thinned to some degree, and have outstanding flowed out finish and longevity examples all around me here

waaaay to complicated a process you quote and twice I have found unnecessary. Aside from the scuff particular to the Formula example, dishsoap and a hose is all you need.
Oh, and some time...

the only part I'll get with as I posted previously, is that the smooth surfaces in these Formula bilges should be scuffed, just simply scuffed up prior to the last detail wash/degrease

I'm still not clear on what you are doing. The bilge is fiberglass with gelcoat. Why would you paint it?

Rippem....You say you just used the acetone to thin and didn't usr any hardener at all?

correct.

I don't know why the hardener? Other than putting a thick oil-base product on too heavy and it doesn't want to set itself up?

I have painted alot of chit (finish coat, I use rusty metal primer on rusty metal, as filler and boundry coat, but that's not fiberglass) for various exposures and duties over the years with thinned RO applied in multiple thin coats (usually 2 will do the job, coat one for coverage coat 2 for finish) and the stuff has always cured up rock-hard.

The ONLY time with my methods I have EVER seen a crack-or-peel was because of surface prep/contamination not the product.

Look, we've all used RO. We all know and have been frustrated at least once by how thick it is and prone to dragging as the time you have to work it is quite limited outta da can.

You would be pleasantly suprised how much more applicable, workable, and smooth this product lays out thinned within manufacturer specs.
I have thinned another 5% or so beyond to about 15% with no noticable loss of coverage or longevity.

Like I said another HUGE key is a quality fine brush with finished bristle ends.

combine that with the thinned product and you can get some simply amazing results fo what it is
and thats what I'm about- overachieving low $ combos-
love em!

you have the way you did yours and i have a way i do mine and all of my past customers..as for mine you could still see the shiny paint under mine but its all been cleaned and pressure washed and ready to be sanded..i DON'T use Rustoleum,i use two part Sherwin Williams poly urethane resin with a activator..i dont like to use any thinners like acetone because it creates solvent pops or blisters over time..
just my o2

did mine with SW looks great, and is as hard as nails...