I've heard quite a bit of talk on this topic and thought it would be helpful to get some feedback on this specific hull before I make the change.
For what it's worth my boat is currently running with standard drive height and standoff boxes.
Who is turning their props IN on the 353 and what were the results?

I have 5 blades and just switched to in, but did not get much testing done. It seemed a little easier to set the optimal trim at low to moderate speeds. Prior to this, the boat had a tendency to porpoise at this speed. I did not run hard. Definitely tougher around the docks, but not so bad that I would go back for this reason alone.

Bblades originally labbed my props and I called them prior to get feedback. They recommended trying turning in and said I could expect anywhere from 2-4 mph on the top end and thought the boat might run better all around as the 5 blades can produce too much stern lift turning out. Turning in, they suck the stern in.

Sounds like it's worth a try. I'm still running the stock Bravos and wanted to see what we can get before getting into labbing them or a different model prop.

I have a 382, and had the factory spin them in. Formula wanted to spin them out because they had always done it hat way. It is harder to control around the docks, but I heard you gain top end speed. Plus the rooster tail is much higher.

Can't argue with a bigger rooster tail!

Then again with Bravos Im not seeing much of one regardless.

Definitely the first step in prop testing is to try turning them in. Record your rpms and speed at cruise and top end and then give bblades a call with your data. They will point you in the right direction from there.

This seems easy enough to do but I don't know if its worth the time for me. Not running big power, just stock 525s. Gains for me might not be all that worth it. I am wondering though what actually changes in the handling when dockside?

It was definitely worth it to me. It should only take a few minutes to swap them. I did it with the boat in the water.

10 minutes to switch the props and probably 20 minutes to switch the cables on the helm. You do not have to do this unless you want to leave them. Just be aware that forward is reverse and reverse is forward.

The props have less leverage turning in than out and that makes it more sluggish to respond when trying to spin the boat. It's almost like it had a single and not a twin. It just takes a little getting used to. Not a big deal.

Again, I have not run hard yet, but what I experienced made it well worth it to me. Try it..

When running high HP thru Bravo's, its always better to actually swap the drives rather then change the direction they have been running. Your now loading your clutch, vertical and prop shaft, as well as your lower gears in the opposite direction. Think of bending a piece of metal back and forth, it eventually breaks.

As far as spinning my props in, I never tried it. Procharged 509's, IMCO boxes, 1" IMCO shortys, labbed 36" Bravo props. not sure if I want to give up docking control, or if it would even help my combo.

LE

I do not claim to be an expert, but I know there are two schools of thought. I've heard your recommendation, but also the exact opposite in terms of getting the most life out of Bravos from very experienced professionals. All I know is I have swapped my drives twice in 4 seasons (3 with whipples) and I've not had a failure yet. As for speed, Bblades tells me to expect 2-4 more mph. Might be worth it to speak with whomever labbed your props or call Bblades.

So sounds like I should consider switching my drives if we decide to spin them in permanently. Based on the drive serial numbers, mine are in their original locations since the boat was new.