252 ss no power to motor Need help please!!!!!
#11
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Miami, FL
Everyone has been great with their suggestions, Thank you!!!!
I am going to have to take it slow and trace from the battery to the starter, trim and so on with daylight. Basically it looks like the issue is between the 50 amp breaker on the motor and the battery. I see there are a few fuses like a 90 on the starter and a 110 amp on the solenoids for the trim. I will find it.
Befu- you are correct the ignition source and the gauge power should be the same since both are not working. Not power to the ign breaker so it has to be fore this. My guess is it is close to the battery area.
I am going to have to take it slow and trace from the battery to the starter, trim and so on with daylight. Basically it looks like the issue is between the 50 amp breaker on the motor and the battery. I see there are a few fuses like a 90 on the starter and a 110 amp on the solenoids for the trim. I will find it.

Befu- you are correct the ignition source and the gauge power should be the same since both are not working. Not power to the ign breaker so it has to be fore this. My guess is it is close to the battery area.
#12
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Posts: 956
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From: NE Indiana
I am out of this one! Sounds different from mine. My ignition comes from the same power bar as my lights and such, that is why I was looking at a fuse. Unfortunately, not the case with the newer ones. Good luck, I will follow along. I'm interested now!
Brian
Brian
#13
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From: Miami, FL
Befu,
I am going by the schematic that formula gave me. However this schematic is for a 1992 252 BR, I have a 1996 252SS. I'm not sure if they are the same.
I will try and confirm this with formula or did they make a mistake by giving me the wrong schematic.
Or does anyone here have schematic for is year/ model or shed some light if formula is consistant with thre schematic.
Thanks
I am going by the schematic that formula gave me. However this schematic is for a 1992 252 BR, I have a 1996 252SS. I'm not sure if they are the same.
I will try and confirm this with formula or did they make a mistake by giving me the wrong schematic.
Or does anyone here have schematic for is year/ model or shed some light if formula is consistant with thre schematic.
Thanks
#14
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 291
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From: Miami, FL
Ok woke up this morning to tackle this issue. I found out that there is a fuse that is located on the starter that supplies power to the breaker on the motor. Part number for this fuse is 88-79023A91, this is a 90 amp fuse. I decided to replace it with the OEM part.
However, I am thinking the best method would be to install a latching breaker to replace this fuse, just case this happens out in the water.
So my question is why did this fuse blow. My guess is that since I changed out my batteries maybe there was a surge or maybe *hit happens and it was it its time.
The fuse did look old so who knows
Thanks everyone for all their input.
Also, FYI a good check for the neutral safety switch if working ,is to look on the ignition witch for a yellow/ red. Tie your meter on this wire to test continuity, then look for the yellow / red wire on the master engine harness. Tie your other lead to his wire. You should get continuity. Then move your selector you should break the connection. This will help avoid pulling the full assembly apart.
However, I am thinking the best method would be to install a latching breaker to replace this fuse, just case this happens out in the water.
So my question is why did this fuse blow. My guess is that since I changed out my batteries maybe there was a surge or maybe *hit happens and it was it its time.
The fuse did look old so who knows
Thanks everyone for all their input.
Also, FYI a good check for the neutral safety switch if working ,is to look on the ignition witch for a yellow/ red. Tie your meter on this wire to test continuity, then look for the yellow / red wire on the master engine harness. Tie your other lead to his wire. You should get continuity. Then move your selector you should break the connection. This will help avoid pulling the full assembly apart.
#15
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,194
Likes: 5
From: hampstead nh
Ok woke up this morning to tackle this issue. I found out that there is a fuse that is located on the starter that supplies power to the breaker on the motor. Part number for this fuse is 88-79023A91, this is a 90 amp fuse. I decided to replace it with the OEM part.
However, I am thinking the best method would be to install a latching breaker to replace this fuse, just case this happens out in the water.
So my question is why did this fuse blow. My guess is that since I changed out my batteries maybe there was a surge or maybe *hit happens and it was it its time.
The fuse did look old so who knows
Thanks everyone for all their input.
Also, FYI a good check for the neutral safety switch if working ,is to look on the ignition witch for a yellow/ red. Tie your meter on this wire to test continuity, then look for the yellow / red wire on the master engine harness. Tie your other lead to his wire. You should get continuity. Then move your selector you should break the connection. This will help avoid pulling the full assembly apart.
However, I am thinking the best method would be to install a latching breaker to replace this fuse, just case this happens out in the water.
So my question is why did this fuse blow. My guess is that since I changed out my batteries maybe there was a surge or maybe *hit happens and it was it its time.
The fuse did look old so who knows
Thanks everyone for all their input.
Also, FYI a good check for the neutral safety switch if working ,is to look on the ignition witch for a yellow/ red. Tie your meter on this wire to test continuity, then look for the yellow / red wire on the master engine harness. Tie your other lead to his wire. You should get continuity. Then move your selector you should break the connection. This will help avoid pulling the full assembly apart.



