Formula 330SS Anchor Roller and Windlass . . .
#1
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Cape Cod, MA
My 330 SS does not have the factory windlass/anchor roller setup. I am thinking of adding a windlass to my boat.
I am wondering if anyone on this forum has added a windlass to a sun sport (260, 280 or 330) and would have any advice to share?
I am wondering if anyone on this forum has added a windlass to a sun sport (260, 280 or 330) and would have any advice to share?
#3
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,333
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From: Indy, St. Louis, LOTO
We hired the dealer to add it a couple of years after buying the boat. It's a sizable job, requiring big wires to run all the way to the anchor windlass. Plus, I don't know how they accessed the very front of the anchor locker to bolt the stainless hardware. I do most of my maintenance, but this is one that I'm glad to have hired out.
#4
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From: Cape Cod, MA
OK, thanks for the replies so far.
I'll be tackling this myself and will probably post some pics, etc.
So, far, I have scoped out a windlass and some sources for the OEM rocker switches ( which are Carling Technologies - "V Series Contura II" ).
My anchor rode currently is braided, but I do not see hardly any of the windlasses spec'd for braided ( they are either 3 strand twisted or 8. plait ). So, I'll be getting about 200' of twisted nylon rode. I have a fair amount of chain with my current anchor, so I may just re-use that.
Then, there is the anchor . . . I will be switching from a fluke to a delta style anchor.
I'll have to check out the access to the forward part of the anchor locker and how far forward the anchor roller will need mounting bolts, etc.
For wiring, it looks like I have to run some heavy gauge wire directly from the battery switch up to the windlass and then some other wiring to the helm. There is a solenoid that handles the high current to the windlass, so I am not sure where the best location is for that. Also, would need a big ground wire to run the length of the boat.
I probably will tackle this once the boat is out of the water for the season, which will be another month or so.
I'll be tackling this myself and will probably post some pics, etc.
So, far, I have scoped out a windlass and some sources for the OEM rocker switches ( which are Carling Technologies - "V Series Contura II" ).
My anchor rode currently is braided, but I do not see hardly any of the windlasses spec'd for braided ( they are either 3 strand twisted or 8. plait ). So, I'll be getting about 200' of twisted nylon rode. I have a fair amount of chain with my current anchor, so I may just re-use that.
Then, there is the anchor . . . I will be switching from a fluke to a delta style anchor.
I'll have to check out the access to the forward part of the anchor locker and how far forward the anchor roller will need mounting bolts, etc.
For wiring, it looks like I have to run some heavy gauge wire directly from the battery switch up to the windlass and then some other wiring to the helm. There is a solenoid that handles the high current to the windlass, so I am not sure where the best location is for that. Also, would need a big ground wire to run the length of the boat.
I probably will tackle this once the boat is out of the water for the season, which will be another month or so.
#6
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 489
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From: Cape Cod, MA
Fabulous . . . lots of work, but worth it in the end.
1) I installed a bow roller and split out the navigation lights. It had the single combo bow light previously.

.
2) I happened to need to re-do the headliner in the cabin. So, I ran the heavy wiring while I had the headliner down.

.

.
3) I selected the Maxwell RC-86 windlass for the job

.
4) Cut the holes, treated the edges

.

.
5) Installed the windlass and backing plate, etc

.
6) Installed the circuit breaker next to the battery switch

.
7) Wired up the solenoid behind the anchor locker bulkhead (this is behind the forward facia board in the cabin)

.
8) Installed the helm switch

.

.
9) I had to get a new bow roller for auto launching, decided to get a 33 lb claw anchor instead of the Danforth anchor that I had, and also had to get 'short link' chain to be compatible with the windlass.
I also installed a swivel between the chain and the anchor.
.

It works !!!
1) I installed a bow roller and split out the navigation lights. It had the single combo bow light previously.

.
2) I happened to need to re-do the headliner in the cabin. So, I ran the heavy wiring while I had the headliner down.

.

.
3) I selected the Maxwell RC-86 windlass for the job

.
4) Cut the holes, treated the edges

.

.
5) Installed the windlass and backing plate, etc
.
6) Installed the circuit breaker next to the battery switch
.
7) Wired up the solenoid behind the anchor locker bulkhead (this is behind the forward facia board in the cabin)
.
8) Installed the helm switch
.
.
9) I had to get a new bow roller for auto launching, decided to get a 33 lb claw anchor instead of the Danforth anchor that I had, and also had to get 'short link' chain to be compatible with the windlass.
I also installed a swivel between the chain and the anchor.
.
It works !!!
Last edited by tpenfield; 07-21-2017 at 07:49 AM.



