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Formula 272 Outdrive Corrosion?

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Old 01-13-2016, 08:25 AM
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Default Formula 272 Outdrive Corrosion?

Hey all...first post here. I'm looking at buying a boat in my area (Georgian Bay area in Canada). I don't know much about the history of the boat so it could very well have come from a salt water life. Maybe maybe not.

Anyway, the out drive looks oddly corroded. Seems like the bottom skeg portion of the out-drive is corroded. Looks to me like the zinc is missing on that out-drive.

I haven't gone to look at the boat, maybe this or next weekend, but the out-drives have me second guessing even going to look.

It's a 1987 Formula 272, Alpha drives, 350 small blocks, pretty decent shape overall. Conversion would make it $10,200USD. Hour meter says 192hrs...seems unbelievable to me...but who knows.

What do you all think? Is this priced fairly?

Rob

I don't know why I can post attachments...I have the same topic in the hull truth...you can see pics there. I've driven boats all my life just have never owned a Formula of this length or power.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...rrosion.html#b
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:33 AM
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My guess is that port lower unit is an SEI drive, as it is counter rotating and in '87 I don't think counter rotating alphas were available.

The SEI is a fine, affordable, but they are known for corrosion due to lower quality painting. I wouldn't worry about it, they aren't very expensive to replace.

The boat looks nice, and with an I beam aluminum trailer, the price seems fair. I sold an '89 272 with big blocks last summer for 14.5k.
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:19 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply Mr Maine! Really, I would have had to search to the end of the Internet to figure that out.

And ya, I thought it was odd that it was only the lower end of the outdrive because the rest looks okay. This SEI, is not the best quality, so can I now buy a counter-rotating Merc lower end? And I assume it would have to be a counter rotating lower unit. ...is it fixable? Can I blast with silica and repaint with the Merc paint and primer?

There's a bit of a hairline crack on the port side by the tow hooks. Is that of any concern?


Rob

Last edited by FormulaCanada; 01-13-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:36 AM
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I have had SEI alphas and have beat on them and they didn't break, so quality wise I think they are fine, just the paint isn't as good as OEM. Not having a zinc probably didn't help. Can you just clean it up and repaint it?

A new mercruiser counter rotating alpha one will probably be pretty pricey, which is why people go for the SEIs.

Regarding the crack, it is probably just in the gel. Most older boats tend to have some superficial gel cracking in high stress areas. Some brands much more than others.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:17 PM
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Haha, ya I was asking if it's fixable? I really don't know. I've watched a few videos on YouTube, but have no idea. Can you fill the pits with anything since its cast aluminum?
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:42 PM
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Good looking boat but if you do go and look at it make sure you check the transom and bulkheads and stringers for moisture
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:36 PM
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Good looking boat. $10,000 does not go very far in performance boating. That being said, if the hull is dry and it runs/drives well, then it would be a good deal.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:39 PM
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BTW that paint scheme is the best looking of all the 80s Formulas.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by FormulaCanada
Haha, ya I was asking if it's fixable? I really don't know. I've watched a few videos on YouTube, but have no idea. Can you fill the pits with anything since its cast aluminum?
You can clean the bare aluminum real well then fill and sand with body filler or jb weld. Prime and paint. I'm not saying this is pro or as good as original but has worked well for me.

Use zinc chromate primer if you can get it
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:59 PM
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79Formula, haha, yes, I agree with you. I like the color scheme the best. There's one with black sides instead of red as well...but good luck finding that one.

Thanks for all the tips. I will most definitely go look at it, but I can't go this weekend! Damn Canadian winter isn't allowing it (my brother, who know some more than me about this stuff is stuck on an island in Georgian Bay, waiting for the ice to freeze.

Anyway, only issue I have is checking the bulkheads and transom in the winter, if there is moisture in them, up here in Canada that stuff would be rock solid, frozen! How would I know? Should I be looking for any signs of rot? I'm pretty sure it's outside as it's shrink-wrapped for the winter. I'm told that I'll be able to look at it when I get there...

Ah...yes, JB Weld...great idea. I've used the JB Weld Marine Epoxy stick on my seadoo. Sticks like hell too. We'll see when I get there. Any more tips when I go are welcome. Probably checking it out January 23rd...I'm hoping it's still available.


Rob
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