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Formula 272 Outdrive Corrosion?

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Old 01-16-2016 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Maine
You can clean the bare aluminum real well then fill and sand with body filler or jb weld. Prime and paint. I'm not saying this is pro or as good as original but has worked well for me.

Use zinc chromate primer if you can get it
I have a Bravo III that had very little corrosion on the steg. I got some fine grit sandpaper - sanded it down and gave it about 3 coats of the zinc chromate primer and then no less than 6 (very light) coats of Mercury Spray Can paint -- I started this off in the early morning sanding and then priming - it was warm out and every 1/2 hour or so I would give it another coat of primer and then paint - It has been 3 years now and not a hint of issue. I think the trick to this entire thing is the primer.

I know everyone has an elixir for bringing back gel coat - but I have had a lot of luck with the 3m oxidation/polish. We had a 1976 Browning Mustang II that was brown - I used this with an electric buffer and it came out like it was brand new..

All the very best

3pointstar

All the best
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Old 01-16-2016 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 3pointstar
I have a Bravo III that had very little corrosion on the steg. I got some fine grit sandpaper - sanded it down and gave it about 3 coats of the zinc chromate primer and then no less than 6 (very light) coats of Mercury Spray Can paint -- I started this off in the early morning sanding and then priming - it was warm out and every 1/2 hour or so I would give it another coat of primer and then paint - It has been 3 years now and not a hint of issue. I think the trick to this entire thing is the primer.

I know everyone has an elixir for bringing back gel coat - but I have had a lot of luck with the 3m oxidation/polish. We had a 1976 Browning Mustang II that was brown - I used this with an electric buffer and it came out like it was brand new..

All the very best

3pointstar

All the best
That's good to know. I actually think I have some of that 3M product already. I have one of those bug orbital car buffers though, not sure if that's the one you're talking about or a professional style buffer (i.e. high speed buffer).
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Old 01-16-2016 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FormulaCanada
That's good to know. I actually think I have some of that 3M product already. I have one of those bug orbital car buffers though, not sure if that's the one you're talking about or a professional style buffer (i.e. high speed buffer).
I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $49.00 special -- NOTHING FANCY - I wouldn't recommend it if you were planning on doing this buffing stuff for a career but for once it year it is ok. I used pads to apply and remove. Then to polish/wax - I use Miguires Boat formulation - put it on with a random orbitor sander with a sponge pad-- very light coat and then wipe off by hand.

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Old 01-16-2016 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jekyl
Did you change cam too? What did it run before head swap?
With a bone stock 260 it ran 53-55mph. I put through hull exhaust in, comp 262 flat cam, flat top Pistons, vortec heads, air gap intake, and 750 double pumper. It would run 65-66 anytime.
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Old 01-17-2016 | 12:25 AM
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You know the only thing I'm hesitant on (obv before actually seeing the boat) is the new gauges. I just always like things looking like they were designed. Granted, the new gauges look really nice, I can't decide if I would've rather had the old ones. That said, this is purely cosmetic...I doubt it would change my mind whether to purchase it...
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Old 01-17-2016 | 11:48 AM
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about the gauges . . . The original gauges, which were the VDO Blue Line series, IIRC, are no longer made. The gauge lenses tend to craze & crack after about 20 years, so gauge replacement becomes necessary and you typically have to go with something different.
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Old 01-17-2016 | 10:59 PM
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Haha, hey tpenfield! You're on here too

That's good to know. I think the guy did a pretty decent job picking the autometer gauges, so it's not something I'm too concerned with. But good to know the stock ones fail and this is actually necessary.
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Old 01-18-2016 | 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by FormulaCanada
Haha, hey tpenfield! You're on here too

That's good to know. I think the guy did a pretty decent job picking the autometer gauges, so it's not something I'm too concerned with. But good to know the stock ones fail and this is actually necessary.
Yup, I frequent here as well as iBoats, . . . THT and BABC occaissionally.

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Old 01-18-2016 | 12:29 PM
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I have found this forum and iBoats to be very good. Thanks to all.
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Old 01-30-2016 | 05:18 PM
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Default Formula 292 sr-1

Hey I have the same topic over in iBoats. Why can't I post pics here? Is it because I'm still new?
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...orrosion/page2


Okay guys, change O' plans here. Talking with the seller back and forth and the fact it's an Alpha drive and he's not able to give me much history I've decided not to go view it.

That said, there is a nice 1989 Formula 292 SR-1 which looks to be in good shape and the seller sounds quite knowledgable and is a lover of boats in general and has answered all my questions to satisfaction. It's quite far from me so I'm gonna wait until my week off (Feb 15th week) to go view it...hoping it's still there. He said he'll drop me a line if there's any other buyers showing interest.

Anyway...here's a pic. I'm obviously going to apply all the knowledge you've already mentioned in this thread...is there anything in particular about the 1989 292 which I should be looking for? It's the Bravo 1 drives with 454 - carbureted. Approx $16.9K USD.

Last edited by FormulaCanada; 02-01-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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