I have a lancelot wheel I never used, its still in the package. I will be happy to send it to you if you promise not to use that buffer/saw blade contraption again!!!!

Thanks man but honestly based on what the chain saw was doing I am not sure the lancelot wheel would be any safer. I was trying to plan my every move very carefully to say the least!

I tried the saw blade to but I only had the stones for a four incher lol. The very best thing was the Lancelot wheel. I had to use every trick in the book and even make up some new ones to deal with the Plexus.

Dave did you try using the side of the blade instead of the normal tip? The side is what I used and it worked very well. Was a work out holding on to it however! I had a very hard time making a chuck to hold the blade well on my polisher. I wanted the speed to be very slow!

I tried a cement cutting blade on my buffer. That was a lot easier to handle but slower. It was a smaller blade and much more controllable.

I was finally able to get the boat back to my shop. Not only did this allow me to work inside AC but also have air tools again. Last night I was able to get all the Plexus in and I am ready for the glass shop.

This first 2 pictures I have all the grinding done. I was able to take an air grinder that I have and flip the pad over to be able to grind under the stringers. The speed of the grinder was an issue when it got around the Plexus but there was so little of it that it was not a big deal.

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I was concerned that there was quite a bit of rocker in the bottom. I took some strait pieces of plywood and was able to make the bottom very strait by cutting the plywood to the correct sizes and using the trailer to push up on the bottom of the boat. Worked better then I thought. There is still a very slight amount on the starboard side near the pad but less then 1/16th of an inch so I am very happy.

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Just a different view that shows the amount that I removed.

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This is with all the plexus installed. It took me 13 tubes of Plexus to fill all the remaining areas!

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Today the plexus was still curing but I was able to get a rough idea if my approach is on the right track. The bottom is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger then it was before. Remember this is WITH OUT the core that I will be having put into the boat next and the glass that will go over that.

Also it is a little hard to see them but I drilled 4 holes on either side of the center stringer in front of the step. This void took almost 4 full tubes of plexus to fill! I just kept pushing it in there up to the point I saw it come out the top and bottom. If there is one thing I know this thing is going to be MUCH stronger then it was EVER before and probably any of them are (other then the one Dave did)

If I was guessing I would say I am some place around 40 hours into this. Also a LOT of time researching what the next step should be as far as tools to use and how not to kill myself. The product I have used so far is probably in the 1500-2000 dollar range for the Plexus, blades, sand paper, and other disposables. Between my brother and I we had most all of the tools I needed. The glass shop is estimating 5K for the coring, lamination, and painting of the engine bay. So at the end of the day I guess this method is about the same cost as what Dave was quoting me for his method. I think that maybe this way was a lot quicker but the cost of materials is much higher as I expected when I started into this whole mess.

I used:

Large and small pry bars,
Variable speed buffing wheel
air grinders
Fein Multi Master
Chain Saw
Dust Masks
White Tyvek Suits
saw bladed of various types
Vacuum cleaner
screw drivers
tape
plastic to protect the interior

I'm tired just looking at these pics!!!

You forgot the most important tool of all, the BIG PHUCKING HAMMER!!! (or inertial amplification device for you technical people out there)

Well said Rob...lmao:lolhit: