restoring our 1990 292 SR1
07-02-2016 | 12:12 PM
#31
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From: wisconsin
The deck/cockpit liner is bonded at the rubrail with the adhesive and bolted as TomZ explained . . . I think they currently use 'Plexus' adhesive http://www.itwplexus.com/ . . , but their 1990 brochure talks about 'Arogrip'.
The cockpit sole is not bonded to the stringer grid, so that is an opportunity to strengthen the boat on a re-build.
Separating the deck and hull pieces will be a bit more challenging because of the adhesive, but if the stringer grid is in bad shape (which it probably is) you will really need good access, and IMO, cutting the sole of the cockpit is not a good approach with the '2-piece' construction boats.
BTW - I have the 1990 Brochure PDF, if you would like it. Not sure if Formula has the old brochures online any more.
The cockpit sole is not bonded to the stringer grid, so that is an opportunity to strengthen the boat on a re-build.
Separating the deck and hull pieces will be a bit more challenging because of the adhesive, but if the stringer grid is in bad shape (which it probably is) you will really need good access, and IMO, cutting the sole of the cockpit is not a good approach with the '2-piece' construction boats.
BTW - I have the 1990 Brochure PDF, if you would like it. Not sure if Formula has the old brochures online any more.
07-03-2016 | 05:23 AM
#32
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From: Cape Cod, MA
The bunk trailer should be good to hold the hull in shape, but you could add some support with some extra boards and braces. Also put the trailer itself up on blocks in several places along its length.
When I did the stringers on my 242, I just left it on the trailer, since it was bunks. It was a partial re-build, so not as fragile.
When I did the stringers on my 242, I just left it on the trailer, since it was bunks. It was a partial re-build, so not as fragile.
07-03-2016 | 10:31 AM
#33
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From: Virginia Beach
Mine was done the same way... rear quarter of the boat only. We left her on the trailer, and since she was on straight bunks with a support under the keel (Owen and Sons trailer... awesome trailer btw), we saw no need to mess with any other supports.
If you take the cap off, it'll be a different story.
If you take the cap off, it'll be a different story.
Last edited by TomZ; 07-03-2016 at 10:34 AM.
07-04-2016 | 12:24 AM
#36
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From: wisconsin
Things are coming along, still in the disassembly stage, next will be the wiring removal and dash, windshield, motors and drives
[ATTACH=CONFIG]556963[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556964[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556965[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556966[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]556963[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556964[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556965[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]556966[/ATTACH]
07-04-2016 | 07:36 AM
#37
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From: Cape Cod, MA
No, I did not split the boat halves, I did the rear 1/3, similar to what TomZ had done.
I have a thread on iBoats about the repair . . . http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...rs-w-many-pics
The bulkhead and parts of the stringers were rotted. The transom was OK.
I have a thread on iBoats about the repair . . . http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...rs-w-many-pics
The bulkhead and parts of the stringers were rotted. The transom was OK.
07-06-2016 | 01:52 PM
#38
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Virginia Beach
No, I did not split the boat halves, I did the rear 1/3, similar to what TomZ had done.
I have a thread on iBoats about the repair . . . http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...rs-w-many-pics
The bulkhead and parts of the stringers were rotted. The transom was OK.
I have a thread on iBoats about the repair . . . http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...rs-w-many-pics
The bulkhead and parts of the stringers were rotted. The transom was OK.
09-11-2016 | 02:45 PM
#40
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From: North Florida
I am also in search of these molded plastic inserts if anyone has information. Taylor Made has nothing despite having purchased Water Bonnet.
