I have the revo, 22 b1, mI rage 23+, and hydromotive 24. By far the revolution is the best hands down no debate. I belive if I could have it worked to a 22p it would be the best prop. The b1 I OK it lifts the boat well and definitely acts like a 4 blade should. Just doesn't handle turns as well as the revolution.

Been enjoying the boat almost every Saturday and sunday. This weekend went up to lake Martin but left the boat at home and used a friend's pontoon that stays up there. Kicked myself in the tail the whole time. It would have been nice to get it out there and catch some air with it. The week of separation gave me a good motivation to get out there this morning and try to further address the water in the cabin floor issue. I noticed 2 weeks ago while dripping anchor that my bow light was loose. The acres in the hull were tight but the light wasnt. Took him off and tightened the screws down with a little blue loctite. Installed back on hull with new silicone. Then removed the bow cleat and cleaned all old silicone off and replaced. Then replaced the thru hull drain for the sink. That white fitting in the black stripe looked goofy so I put in a black one with new silicone. Then made sure any place in the cabin was clean of any water. I hosed the thing down hard for about an hour and could find any water enetting anywhere. So fingers crossed it's fixed. Took some resolve, scrub brush, and shop vac to the carpet got it cleaned up. Then room some degreaser/bleach/water in a pump sprayer to the bilge. She looks nice and new again. I've been itching to do that and now I feel much better about it. Taking it over to pensacola this weekend for the blue angels show.

On another note. I have never had a boat that got a scum line as bad as this one. I have put 3 different waxes on the bottom and none seem to be working. Even ferecla. So I tried nano shock today. It says it continues to cure for 24 hours. Tomorrow evening I'll put another coat on. Has anyone used a product with success that males removing scum possible without using a hull cleaner?

The nano shock was a bust. Not nearly as "hydrophobic as advertised to be. Still got a scum line. Going to try a few more products. And report back with results.

For my 311 I use Bar Keeper's Friend spray to get the water line clean, and then I wash with Turtle Wax ICE Wash and Wax to build the wax back up. I'm able to get about four uses out of the boat before I need to treat with Bar Keeper's Friend. I boat in particularly tea-like water so staining can be a problem, but this method has worked really well.

Though a cheaper product, I wouldn't let the price deter you. I find that Turtle Wax's wash and wax really makes her shine nicely [without all the elbow grease]. I use about a quarter to half dollar-sized dollop on a wet boat brush, and apply to the deck/hull-sides (nice and sudsy). I do not mix it in a bucket... I find the mixture is diluted too much that way. During regular washes, the scum line comes off easily (my only "treatment" areas are at the mid-bow to just under the helm).

Hope this helps.

On another note I really enjoy your posts! Glad to see you're getting so much great use out of your 242!

I use a hull cleaner product made by s&n it litteraly dissolved the scum line is seconds. I use a meguires wash and wax that I have used for years on all my other boats and vehicles. It works well but I will certainly try your technique and suggested products.

We went to blue angels in it this weekend, then up the river Sunday to clean the salt out. I'm still loving it. If I can ever get the zero breeze a.c. that I ordered I will be doing over nighters much more. Just don't like the heat right now.

Thanks for your input and nice comments Tom! Any update from the new owner of your 242?

Haven't heard from him. He called once regarding trying to get the engine started, but I wasn't able to get back to him. I figured that since I had not heard from him again, that all was worked out. He's about 50 miles away from where I'm at.

Good deal, hopefully he's enjoying it. It was a fine one.

As luck would have it, as soon as I get it all dialed in and doing great I kill it. I never run it hard for more than 30 seconds to a minute. But Saturday if had a few encouraging beverages and was headed home and ran it hard for about 2 to 3 mins. All was well, 64-65mph I was happy as could be until the temp gauge went from 150 to over 220 in litteraly less than 2 seconds. I throttle down and shut off. By then the oil pressure had dropped and it was knocking.

Work is killing me with overtime right now which is not good for having time to pull the engine and drive, but it is good for funding this event.

Hunter,

Very sorry to hear... knocking lower end? Sounds like it cooked the oil in short order.

Hunter, sorry to hear the bad news.

Yes sir. Definitely a rod knock. I believe I caught an ice bag or something similar. I've had it happen once on my drag boat. Know numerous guys have had it happen to them. Normally we can shut down quick enough to just pick the pieces out. I wasn't so lucky this time. I just got off, gonna go home get a shower and go to bed. I wish I had the time and energy to at least get it out. I have spoken to one of the two local race engine builders that are supposed to the best of the best. I'll talk to the other one tomorrow. I'm hoping the crank isn't damaged. If so who knows what I'll end up building out of it.

Haven't even pulled the cover off since I got home with it Saturday but I can't help but make plans. Just talked to Bob Grissom (The original engine builder) his suggestion is to tear it down and see how bad it is. If I need a crank he wants to go ahead and stroke it to a 506. A different camshaft and keep my heads. A little carb work and we should be around 650-675hp. I am afraid would then need a more "performance" enthused exhaust than my thumper powers. But the build cost for this wouldn't be bad at all.

Still hoping I can tear it down and just replace some bearings and have the rotating assembly balanced though. I really liked it the way it was. More power would end up putomg the bravo in more jeopardy.

Got the outdrive off last night. Hopefully tomorrow morning can get engine out

What combination to get to 506? A 4.375 stroke?

Yes, retain the 100 over bore. Stroker crank, rods and obviously shorter pistons with more relief cut. I'll have to ask bob what length the rods are. 4.375 sounds right but if have to ask.

It's out. Gonna take it up to my friends shop one day next week to tear it down and inspect the damage.

Is it already a 100 over? That would give 505ci with a 4.25 crank and 520 with a 4.375. Hopefully the cylinder wall are thick enough

Yes it's 100 over. I'm hoping no wall damage. I hope not to have to do anything but some bearings and gaskets. But we will see. As far as stroke I will consult with bob grissom about that once it's tore down if I end up needing to do anything.

Hopefully its a simple refresh. At least you dont have a 3 month boating season working against you like we do up north.
If you do need a crank, a 4.375 stroke would be cool but im sure it would be cheaper to have yours cut if its a forged piece

It definitely would. Your absolutely correct. If I do end up having to dive deep into the pocket book I'll be getting a callies crank. Friends in the drag racing game have had very good experiences with them. Like you said, maybe a refresh and roll

Got in there last night. Found it to be #8 rod bearing. Everything else looks great. Being as I really don't have time to built it right now I opted to spend the funds on a 509 that sick stinger has for sale on the swap shop. Hopefully it can make it next week so I can break it in.

Engine got here yesterday and I took it up to my friends shop.
Got my carb and throttle bracket swapped, most accessory brackets on, harness swapped, headers off. Today I plan to get my exhaust on, new plugs in, prime oil pump and put dizzy back in.

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Nice!!

I think you're going to need a new prop!

.030 over JE pistons, 1.7 crane gold rockers, crane cam shaft(I'll post card later), team g high rise weiand intake, now my holley 800 but was an 850 on it, 088 heads. Should be about 600hp maybe a few extra once tuned correctly. It's supposed to be a fresh built engine that sat for the last few years fogged. It bars over nicely, bore scope showed nothing but good signs. We will see soon. I am making some 1" spacers to put afr sender in to go between manifold and risers. Not sure when it will get into the boat but hopefully soon.

Are you going to use the headers?

And regarding a prop.. I have a 28P Bravo that was at some point labbed by BBlades. I'm thinking she'll go 78 or so with the right prop. Better get steering and k-planes!

No I am not going to use the headers. I would have to get a couple of 90s, some tubing and more stuff so I'm going to keep my exhaust and sell those. I'll see how it does with the 23 m+. Don't know if she will have enough azz to twist a 28 but we will see.

A little progress. Plugs are in and gapped at.035, heads and manifolds cleaned and on with new felpro steel/composite gaskets, wires connected, ps pump and alt back on, belts go on tomorrow and I plan to take it home and drop in Friday night or sat morning.
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She's in her little home. Just dropped in real quick this morning. Plan on finishing up this week in the evenings.
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I love a happy ending!

Well it's not quite happy ending yet. But maybe in the morning I'll get the drive on, fuel pump wired, regulator mounted and timing set for bust off before taking the aluminum boat or glastron on the creek.

Finally got it to the first start today. First impression, valves need adjusting. Second, the cam shaft sounds like a Honda civic compared to the old engine. By the looks of the cam card I was expecting this to be a thumping machine. More like a sewing machine. But once i get the valves adjusted it might sound a little better. Timing is set at 9 degrees since I'm running a v8-24 module. Still have some stuff to do but it's in there and running.

Seems almost every day when I get off lately the rain started coming down. This week I was able to get time between rains to get the valves adjusted, circulating pump and hoses back on, swap the starter twice(palm to forehead) and get it ran a little more at the house. Today I got it I the water for a short shake down run. About 3 miles round trip. Nothing really to report yet as I was varying rpm the whole time and trying not to keep them consistent. Will install the holly blue pump in the morning. I was running a temporary pump set up. If I like how it does I will get a gen5/6 sea pump so I can run mechanical pump again. Hope to get another run on it tomorrow after the holley pump goes on and I get the sun pad back on.

Got the blue pump in this morning. Got on the water. She did well. I'll give it a few easy trips before beating it like a step child but it's so far so good.

I had two of those blue pumps. They both stranded me. Just giving you a warning. I run the marine Aeromotive now. It's expensive but reliable and quiet. The blue pump sounds like some guy with a voice box vibrator is under the hatch. Any difference in the torque with the new engine?

I've ran the same blue pump on my hydrostream since 2006. Haven't had any issues. Hopefully won't with this one. It has more power on the top. I've mainly kept it under 4k so far varying rpm. But I've given it a few I'll throttle bursts for I'd say 4~5 seconds. It kicks like a mile after 4300. I'd range it doesn't feel hardly any different than the old engine.

With a light freeze coming I decided to go ahead and winterize the boat. Boy was it a major pain in the tail. I was not expecting this much complication. The first attempt was a 5 gallon bucket full of antifreeze feeding earmuffs on the lower unit. That was a fail, the anti freeze was so slippery that it leaked behind the ear Earmuffs. That turned into me holding the muffs with my hands while my wife was maintaining a decent level of antifreeze in the bucket and watching the temp gauge. After about 4 gallons of antifreeze I had some coming out of the exhaust wirh the regular steam so I do believe I have nothing to worry about with freezing and cracking but I am not risking it. Got 2 bathroom sized ceramic heaters heaters from walmart. Going to drain carb. Plug fuel line. Place them both in the bilge with the cords running out over the sides. I will use one when its going to freeze. The other will be a back up in the event thast the first fails.

You can also try pulling the plugs on each side of the engine to drain the water and a couple go hoses just to be safe.

I thought about it but that doesn't really help the exhaust. It is my main concern. I'm fairly certain there is enough coolant through the engine to be fine. But id rather play it safe with heat to.

Maybe it's me but I think it's easier to just drain the block and manifolds. Then fill the block and manifolds with a 50/50 mix. I already know I got the antifreeze where I want it. Also it makes the hoses come off easier when you have any repairs that need done. I just don't know how you can be sure that you had the thermostat open when you were running it. Also I don't like the idea of the ceramic heaters. They get hot and if one gets to hot there goes a nice boat over a $20.00 heater. Just my opinion. And filling the manifolds is easy just take the hose off of the thermostat and lift it up. Dump the antifreeze into the hose and it will come out the back through the exhaust.

I'm not trying to say your doing it wrong, just giving some of my opinions.