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If a 454 is worn out at 600 hours guess I need to be thinking about a rebuild in another 50 hours, but she sure is running good :popcorn:
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Common Dodge, I got money to bet your transom bears NO resemblance to the one posted.
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Oil circulation started in 1991 and had a single hole in the upper half for rams. B3 introduced in 1993 and had a extension plate to cover the second prop. Anode on prop shaft added in 1995 and in 1996-1/2 anti-ventilation plate extended for B3. In 1997 1/2 elongated hole added
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Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
(Post 4651622)
How soon do you plan on tearing your engine/drive out of your boat?
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The reason I ask is it takes longer than you think it will if you do it right. You will want to clean/paint the bilge check all wiring, clean all wire terminals, I replaced all of mine with glue/shrink terminals. Clean all of the support equipment and test for operation (trim tabs/pump) lift motor/solenoids, bilge pump/blowers, well you get the idea. Maybe some others that have done this will chine in and enlighten as to what was involved with their swap.
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary. Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right. I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting. Gary |
Thank you. No through prop. It's thru hull. |
Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
(Post 4651648)
The reason I ask is it takes longer than you think it will if you do it right. You will want to clean/paint the bilge check all wiring, clean all wire terminals, I replaced all of mine with glue/shrink terminals. Clean all of the support equipment and test for operation (trim tabs/pump) lift motor/solenoids, bilge pump/blowers, well you get the idea. Maybe some others that have done this will chine in and enlighten as to what was involved with their swap.
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary. Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right. I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting. Gary |
Ok, here are the pictures. Motor looks decent, outdrive obviously sat in the water for quite some time. What can you guys tell me about it? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3ca9786a5a.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5f1c6242bc.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8b30e50689.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9fbd4321e9.jpg |
1989 7.4L 330 Bravo 1. Uses the drive reservoir set-up so that’s a plus. The engine looks clean, and the drive not too bad (clean it up and repaint). Check oil on both. You’ll want to drain some out of the leg to inspect for shavings and such. Having the drive gone through and resealed wouldn’t be bad. Transom assembly will probably need a refresh (but that’s necessary on all of them). Replace the swivel pins and bushings (much easier to do off the boat). New bellows and gimbal bearings. On the engine if you can get a compression test, that’ll be good knowledge to have. What’s up with rocker switch? What’s the boat and how many hours? You’ll want to go through the exhaust. Fresh water isn’t bad, but any level of salt exposure will probably require replacement. |
Tom I normally agree with you, but, on this one I say run don't walk.
As for this being an oiler? I don't think so. |
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