Can this mpi be used with a Alpha drive
 

I can tell you I will NEVER own an mpi. I would put a fast or similar set up on a carb engine before I used any mpi ive seen. I've worked on multiple and they do not impress and seem like they always have a failure over something silly like a ground, pressure sensor, temp sensor. All stupid stuff that a carburetor doesnt care about. Stick with a carb and Tb

Does FAST offer a marine application?

Pretty sure every year the Alpha's where available,all smallblocks where offered with them.

Is that motor the 320hp one's that came with the Tunnel Ram EFI intakes ?

Only if the ECM is reprogramed so the interruptor will cause the motor to stumble

How long it will work with an Alpha depends on how much the boat weights and how easy you are on the throttle

BTW: Give us all the info is given on the ECU/Relay box cover. That should give us a bunch to go from.

mpi
 

Here is the info on the tag . My boat is a 1986. Would that have a 8 pin or 9 pin connector on the engine. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...61b316da1a.jpg

Engine Serial # shows it is350 MAG. BRAVO MPI(GEN+) GM 350 V-8 1996 - 0F602000 THRU 0K001500

https://www.mercruiserparts.com/350-...350-v-8-1996-1
therefore, it is a 1996 and a Vortec headed motor plus obviously came with a Bravo outdrive.

Thanks. If I were to put that in front of a alpha any idea on hooking up the shift interupt? Could it be as easy as tapping into the coil power?

If your doing an engine swap why not go big block?

The alpha leg. I feel even behind the 350 mag it will hold up better than if I went big block.

Probably not, the ECM does the interruption of spark. In the pic, note the white wire coming from the switch. The motor came off a bravo, then most likely the ECM has not be set to recognize the switch. To test get it running on a stand and place a switch (NC) in the White wire coming from the EST distributor. At idle cause the switch to open real quick to see if it causes the motor to stumble. If it does then it might work, but also check for codes after it stumbles

Your motor is top left

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b1951e43fe.jpg

Unfortunately I can not try that on the engine, it is in another state. Can the ecm be reprogrammed ? If so, who does this?

Yes, the MEFI can be reprogrammed and suggest contacting Bob at OBD Diagnostics. He has been repairing/programming these things for many years and is usually available to discuss issues.

https://obd2allinone.com/

White, if you continue down your current path you MUST destroy AND do an "Off Site Disposa"l of ALL hard toe shoes/boots!!
You bought a 242LS it is a PIG with a sbc and efi is a PAIN in the ass.
Shop wisely and bite the bullet, get a later model Bravo and a carb BBC.
I have purchased several late model Bravo drives for under $1,000 including a sweptback Bravo X for $ 400. You need to know what you are looking at and what you need and keep looking. Good clean Bravo transom assemblies can be had for $ 1,000 and under complete. 2 ea 1/2" drill holes for mounting is all that is required to swap Alpha/Bravo (sell alpha)
Keep an eye out for a good carbed BBC and you can keep your shoes! There are a few 242 die hards here that will help you, some have already chined in.
Bottom line is it is highly unlikely you will be happy with the overall performance going the path you are headed. Any direction you decide to go I know the Formula group here will do you right and assist in any way possible.
Good luck.

What him said. If youd like I can keep an eye out for a bravo down here. Believe it or not they dont bring much in my area.

The issue with 50mph is the small block. Hp is hp but tq is what gets you there. A bone stock 330hp 454 will yield low 50s. Most say 54. I can say without a shadow of a doubt that 425hp with a 23p mirage plus put my 242 at 63-64mph all day. I liked it. When I over heated due to an ice bag wrapped around lower unit I figured why not go bigger. Then the domino kicked in. If you can enjoy the boat the way it is for another season or two. Save up for a bravo and rebuilt and modified bb. I would bet you can do this for less than 7k if you look for deals; and can have 60+mph boat.

Pretty sure The 454 Alpha combo (only used for 2-3 yrs) used 1.36 gears to make the drive last a little longer.

That is a fact. Well the gear ratio anyways.

How would a bravo 2 act behind this boat with a 7.4? I know it's not a b1 or B3 but it may be available.

https://louisville.craigslist.org/bp...682265974.html
I don't see an inner transom plate.
Shipping one of these on a pallet is way less expensive than you think.

the Bravo came out in 1988 and up till then the 454 mated to an alpha one of 1.36 gear ratio. There was a couple of reason for the alpha to have 1.36 gear ratio when mated to the 454. Anyone what to take guesses at why ?.

if you can get a seller willing to do that. Some people won't even ship a prop let alone a drive.

what gr am I looking for on a bravo 1 or 3?

A bravo 2 is designed for heavy, slow work boats. They are physically larger lowers. You would be dragging more surface area with a b2 than a b1. No need for a b2 on a 242, over kill and losing speed.

The b3 is a great unit. Very efficient and very low slip ratio. However the props limit out at 26 or 28 I believe. No doubt it would give you one hell of a hole shot. They mainly come behind under powered engines in somewhat heavy boats. For instance my buddys 23' crownline bow rider with mpi 350 mag. It spins 26p props and the best I've gotten from it is 53mph. Not bad for that boat.

I personally would stick to the standard b1 with 1.5 gear as most of them came with.

If I find a bravo with the inner and outer transom plates what else is needed? Will my alpha steering hook up to it? I'm assuming my trim pump hoses will work. How about the shift cables?

Need a Bravo shift plate maybe a drive bottle. Everything else is pretty much a straight up deal.
I have a '86 242b which I swapped from Alfalfa to Bravo.

Verify serial numbers and this could be a good deal. If it is really only a year old it will have all of the desirable oiling features. Also ask about the gimble/transom/ram assemblies, package deal.'sorry forgot to paste link.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/bpo...661541973.html

Looks like a good deal but don't see that being brand new, because its my understanding that all the new ones are swept back

Yes you will need a raw pump as well. Sick stinger is a good dude. He has given me great deals on parts. Let him know what you are looking for and he will pass the savings along to you. He doesn't try to get rich of everything. For instance he sold me a dry to the tip set of tails and set of cyclones for less than I could buy 1 new tail for. He really is a good guy to deal with from all of my experiences.

You are replacing the motor, correct? The water pump comes with the motor not the drive typically.

Yes that's a B1 with a 15.5 inch x 17P prop. B2 props are in the 17 inch and larger diameter

What year? I ask because you want one with an oil reservoir in the transom. The earlier ones did dot have any oil passages from upper to lower and therefore have inferior oiling characters. ][One easy way to tell is if the holes where the lift rams go through the back of the drive are round or oblong. Also if drain plug on bottom side of lower is VERY early, again avoid.
Oblong=newer, good round=old, avoid.
How big of a hurry are you in? What is your price threshold?
This unit does not look very well cared for.