311 Engine Upgrades
#42
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
If you can post a picture of this dreaded work area, we may be able offer some brainstorming. I've had good luck heating with a torch and dabbing it with beeswax.
Many bolts have broken heads. Weld a nut to the remaining stud to get it off once engine is out.
Any way to get a die grinder in there to take the head off? Be it a small cut off wheel used sideways and grind it a little at a time, or even a burr bit.
Many bolts have broken heads. Weld a nut to the remaining stud to get it off once engine is out.
Any way to get a die grinder in there to take the head off? Be it a small cut off wheel used sideways and grind it a little at a time, or even a burr bit.
Welding a nut won’t work. It’ll need to be a bolt. There is very little clearance between the bolt and the header tube.
I might be able to get my die grinder in there. My angle grinder won’t touch it.
I’ll grab a pic in the morning.
#43
Registered
If it is that far gone just grind a flat spot on the head or what is left and center punch it really good, drill the head and it will pop loose.
#45
Registered
TomZ,
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them.
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them.
#46
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
TomZ,
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them.
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them.
Kroil did not work so I had to really dig into this to see what I could figure out.
I started off with my air cutoff tool that was just a little too big to fit. It helped to get started but I nicked a header tube so I had to look at other stuff. Digging through my tools. I had forgotten that I had a Dremmel cutoff wheel set with its own shaft. Surprisingly, it fit within the chuck on my straight grinder. The wheel took the head right off. I then switched to stone to dig into the bolt shaft until I could see the line around shaft. Tapped the header and it fell right into my hands.
Now we’re getting somewhere!
#49
Registered
sure looks pretty!!! We’re the tails custom made or was it something they had. I noticed I had a hard time finding anything for trs. Trying to do some ahead of the time research for my hopefully future boat.
#50
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Looking at the paperwork (from memory) I believe the tailpipes were custom made for the boat. I can take pics and measurements if that would be helpful.