KAMMA Steering ram rebuild?
07-01-2003, 09:15 PM
#1
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KAMMA Steering ram rebuild?
Holey cow,
I go break my leg (literally) and the KAMMA formula crews come out of the woodwork. I don't think I've ever seen so many Kamma posts and threads. Well this question is not about my F402 KAMMA. My buddy has a 1985 F302 KAMMA with the double ram steering. One of the rams is leaking and he can't get anyone local to look at it. I saw a post on a thread by Kammacat that the rams are easy to redo. Anyone done one of the things. What's involved? Can we tear one down and get the parts to rebuild it ourselves and once again thumb our noses at the KAMMA naysayers? Fill me in guys!!!!
Thanks......alj
I go break my leg (literally) and the KAMMA formula crews come out of the woodwork. I don't think I've ever seen so many Kamma posts and threads. Well this question is not about my F402 KAMMA. My buddy has a 1985 F302 KAMMA with the double ram steering. One of the rams is leaking and he can't get anyone local to look at it. I saw a post on a thread by Kammacat that the rams are easy to redo. Anyone done one of the things. What's involved? Can we tear one down and get the parts to rebuild it ourselves and once again thumb our noses at the KAMMA naysayers? Fill me in guys!!!!
Thanks......alj
07-02-2003, 06:41 AM
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Al.......I also sent this to you in an e-mail.
I originally had problems with both, fluid leaking from the end seal, but, the larger problem were my seals on the inside on the "plunger".
To rebuild, yes anyone can do it. The end just twists off. I have always taken off the end where the ram actually comes out of. Once you twist that cap side off you end up with a endcap and ram/plunger in your hand. The cap has very very fine threads,
so be SUPER careful when putting on and off.
On the cap there are (3) seals. One on the very end is the wiper which just keeps water from getting in. That one you can pull out with a pic, and install with your finger. About 1" in is another inside of a 1/4" groove, that is the one that actually seals against the ram w/pressure and prevents fluid to leak out. That one you also take out with a pic, BUT, the new one has to face inwards a special way. The side that looks "larger" is the side that faces
inwards/down into the tube. That one works on pressure to make it seal. Its also kinda a pain to get in. The final one is a thin rubber o-ring that seals it to the tube.
On the ram itself there are only two. They face inwards to each other (as you would see). If those are leaking or not super tight, they will leak fluid from one area of the inner ram to another, that was my biggest problem for my tie-bar ram. Those just cut off/out, and the new ones are like putting a 17" tire on a 15" rim. I used a large flathead to put them on, very slowly.......but it works. Same deal with those. The larger/flared looking sides face outwards to each other.
I'd say you can rebuild each one for $10-15 max, no special tools needed other than a flathead screwdriver and possibly a pic. I got all of my seals from a local hydraulic's place. ALL OF THE NEW SEALS are 100% better than the old, of much better material.
(let me find my list on the pn#s)
Bob
I originally had problems with both, fluid leaking from the end seal, but, the larger problem were my seals on the inside on the "plunger".
To rebuild, yes anyone can do it. The end just twists off. I have always taken off the end where the ram actually comes out of. Once you twist that cap side off you end up with a endcap and ram/plunger in your hand. The cap has very very fine threads,
so be SUPER careful when putting on and off.
On the cap there are (3) seals. One on the very end is the wiper which just keeps water from getting in. That one you can pull out with a pic, and install with your finger. About 1" in is another inside of a 1/4" groove, that is the one that actually seals against the ram w/pressure and prevents fluid to leak out. That one you also take out with a pic, BUT, the new one has to face inwards a special way. The side that looks "larger" is the side that faces
inwards/down into the tube. That one works on pressure to make it seal. Its also kinda a pain to get in. The final one is a thin rubber o-ring that seals it to the tube.
On the ram itself there are only two. They face inwards to each other (as you would see). If those are leaking or not super tight, they will leak fluid from one area of the inner ram to another, that was my biggest problem for my tie-bar ram. Those just cut off/out, and the new ones are like putting a 17" tire on a 15" rim. I used a large flathead to put them on, very slowly.......but it works. Same deal with those. The larger/flared looking sides face outwards to each other.
I'd say you can rebuild each one for $10-15 max, no special tools needed other than a flathead screwdriver and possibly a pic. I got all of my seals from a local hydraulic's place. ALL OF THE NEW SEALS are 100% better than the old, of much better material.
(let me find my list on the pn#s)
Bob
07-02-2003, 11:43 AM
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Bob
Thanks for the info. Part numbers and manufacturer for the seals would be fantastic if you can get that to us. Hopefully this will convince my buddy Ron to dig into this ourselves. If we do, I'd like to do a play by play like cuda did with the drive rebuild. I look forward to any part info you can find us. Thanks...Al
Thanks for the info. Part numbers and manufacturer for the seals would be fantastic if you can get that to us. Hopefully this will convince my buddy Ron to dig into this ourselves. If we do, I'd like to do a play by play like cuda did with the drive rebuild. I look forward to any part info you can find us. Thanks...Al
07-02-2003, 06:00 PM
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alj. Here is what I had per/ram
(1) D-0750UR95 (Wiper Seal) - end seal you can see on ram
(1) 187-00.750SQBUR95 (Polyseal) - inside endcap
(2) 250-01.500UR95 (Polyseal) - for piston
(1) OR-133BN90 (O-Ring) - for cap to tube
Chances are all of the original stuff you pull out is rubber and constructed much differently. (like the inner cap seal is multiple parts that make the one piece). The new stuff is gorloc, or urethane which is much-much better.
In fact you can order the stuff from Martin Fluid Power @ 888-637-0805 locally if needed. (Marietta GA).
I'm telling ya, when you do the 1st ram and "get it down", the others are easy. I placed the ram (end cap area) in a large wooden clamp so it would not twist (not tighten, but just to keep it from rotating)........then grabbed the tube and twisted........REAL SLOW...........Dont x-cross the threads.......
Bob
(1) D-0750UR95 (Wiper Seal) - end seal you can see on ram
(1) 187-00.750SQBUR95 (Polyseal) - inside endcap
(2) 250-01.500UR95 (Polyseal) - for piston
(1) OR-133BN90 (O-Ring) - for cap to tube
Chances are all of the original stuff you pull out is rubber and constructed much differently. (like the inner cap seal is multiple parts that make the one piece). The new stuff is gorloc, or urethane which is much-much better.
In fact you can order the stuff from Martin Fluid Power @ 888-637-0805 locally if needed. (Marietta GA).
I'm telling ya, when you do the 1st ram and "get it down", the others are easy. I placed the ram (end cap area) in a large wooden clamp so it would not twist (not tighten, but just to keep it from rotating)........then grabbed the tube and twisted........REAL SLOW...........Dont x-cross the threads.......
Bob
07-03-2003, 08:50 PM
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Hey guys.
Just spoke with Ron and it looks like we are going to tackle his leaking ram. We are going to try to do a blow by blow video of this like Cuda did with his drive and post it here. We are starting tomorrow I think but stay tuned!
ALJ
Just spoke with Ron and it looks like we are going to tackle his leaking ram. We are going to try to do a blow by blow video of this like Cuda did with his drive and post it here. We are starting tomorrow I think but stay tuned!
ALJ
07-04-2003, 08:54 AM
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alj......two tips that might help.
#1- That inner seal on the end cap thats about 1" in or so. The seal side that faces upwards is "solid", the side down towards the tube looks multi-piece. (sorry, best i could think of). That one is hell to get in. What you need to do is get a 3/4" piece of dowling and cut it so it just is below the groove bottom. With the cap on a table you will be able to "shove" the new seal down into the groove w/o it going down into the cap to far. (trust me it actually makes sense). Basically thing of it as a plug.
#2- On the piston seals. The "solid" sections face inwards to each other, and the "V" groove outwards. If you can get just 1/2" of one seal on, hold it in place with a long nose clamp. (like a wooden jorgenson if you have one). Carefull its all brass stuff. Then take the flathead screwdriver and carefully stretch the rest around in small increments.
Bob
#1- That inner seal on the end cap thats about 1" in or so. The seal side that faces upwards is "solid", the side down towards the tube looks multi-piece. (sorry, best i could think of). That one is hell to get in. What you need to do is get a 3/4" piece of dowling and cut it so it just is below the groove bottom. With the cap on a table you will be able to "shove" the new seal down into the groove w/o it going down into the cap to far. (trust me it actually makes sense). Basically thing of it as a plug.
#2- On the piston seals. The "solid" sections face inwards to each other, and the "V" groove outwards. If you can get just 1/2" of one seal on, hold it in place with a long nose clamp. (like a wooden jorgenson if you have one). Carefull its all brass stuff. Then take the flathead screwdriver and carefully stretch the rest around in small increments.
Bob
