SR 357 Floor Panel in Cockpit
#21
On most of the windscreens there is a strip of plastic or rubber on the outside of the lower frame (or all the way around). If you remove the strip there are a bunch of screws that hold the frame to the hull-that's where the leak is. Thanks for the condensator advice, I gotta get me one of those cause we run the cabin like a meat locker when it's hot
#22
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm, problem still not settled even after all of this debate. Windshield,,,,,,,,, bilge drains,,,,,,,, cockpit floor,,,,,,, cleats,,,,,,,, toilet,,,,,,,,,,........
Wonder if we'll ever solve this mystery??
Wonder if we'll ever solve this mystery??
#24
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
Originally Posted by 5PMSMWHR
Could it be Third, that you're just missin' the bucket more now that you're older!!!!! Feliz Navidad, ya missed a heck of a party last Friday, Mike & Kitty
Glad the party was a good time. Probably good that we didn't make it as I would have pissed in the nearest plant pot.
Now, get back over to that Formula Wannabe Donzi forum.
#25
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 306
Likes: 6
From: Roanoke VA
Well, I'll chime in one more time- I'm not trying to sound like an expert or anything but I know what I know, which is: 1) Water leaks into my transom on my 357 SR-1. It leaks past the cable for the port manual trim tab indicator for sure and possibly other places(?) 2) There is always water in the bilge below the engines when I raise the boat on my lift. When the boat is lifted, the bow raise a few inches and there's usually more water in the bilge when I'm done (by this time I have turned the power to the bilge pumps off). 3) When I lower the boat into the water, the bow drops down when the boat floats free of the lift. 4) I then switch on the bilge pumps and the one beneath the companion-way step ALWAYS comes on and bilges several scconds. After that the bilge beneath the engines is dry without that bilge ever switching on. Therefore, I know that at least on my 357, the area beneath the step is connected to (and lower than) the engine bilge when the boat is afloat-
Finally, when the boat is tied off at a dock, the step bilge pump cycles on form time to time, the engine bilge so far as I know, never does.
For what its worth-
Finally, when the boat is tied off at a dock, the step bilge pump cycles on form time to time, the engine bilge so far as I know, never does.
For what its worth-
#26
Here's a little trick I learned when using a silicone sealant in a trough or making a bead. Contractors do this all the time. When you seal that gap on the fuel tank panels go buy some of the 1 1/2" or 2" 3M easy release masking tape. It's the blue stuff at Lowes or Home Depot or somewhere. Now carefully mask a line along the edge of the gap between the panel and the floor....BOTH SIDES. YEA, YEA it's a lot of masking, stop yer whining. Next run a bead of silicone into the gap, filling it as you go along. Now tool it with your popsicle stick, a spoon, your finger, wife's finger. You will be pushing a lot of material onto the tape but thats OK. You will need to go over it (tooling) a couple of times to get the bead low. The idea is to get the silicone only in the groove, not up on the tape. Smooth your bead out until the inner edges of the tape (nearest the gap) are almost completely free of silicone. When you are happy with the look of the bead let it set up for about five minutes. Don't let it skin over or harden!!! Just before it skins over carefully pull the tape. PULL AWAY FROM THE GAP! Do not pull straight up. You should have a perfect bead in the gap. DO NOT TRY TO RETOOL THE BEAD AFTER YOU PULL THE TAPE....LEAVE IT ALONE! The acetone trick works fine but so does this and you aren't risking damage to your fiberglass finishes, your lungs, your clothes, your hands, etc. Roll of masking tape......$4.00. Reinstalled the fuel tank panel in my F402 last summer this way. My stupid panel measured about 6' by 9' and included all the raised step ups under the bench seat that the batt switches and breakers are attached to. Two rolls of tape and 4 tubes of clear silicone later it look great. I did such a good job with this sealing job that I must give one more handy Formula tip. Make sure your cockpit drains are adequete and not clogged. My cockpit could double as a hot tub now if I only had a 1 1/2 HP pump and a heater
Later..............Al
Later..............Al
Last edited by alj; 12-17-2004 at 11:31 PM. Reason: typing correction
#27
Wow! I think I've died and gone to 357 heaven.... My boat is on a hoist with a full cover. I've only seen water under the step when the AC unit I installed under the sink drains into the sump... and onto the carpet. I have to pump out anything in that sump..I've done a ton of work on this boat... Motors, swimplatform , paint, interior. I've had it since 2001. I'll round up some pics from last summer.
Cool Thread!!
#28
This is an interesting thread. The 336 I just bought has this same problem with water in the bilge under the cabin step. Next weekend I'm going to do some more digging to see where it's coming from...if possible...
#29
For folks readin this thread--another on similar subject got started--with great info--it's title is "If you have standing water in the bilge under the cabin step read this... "
Worth a read for new info
Worth a read for new info
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Powerboat713
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