266ltd

i am going to pull my drives and check engine/drive alignment, but when i look down at how the engine mounts are bolted it looks like there is no adjustment on them in the front. it looks like they are just bolted dirctly to the stringers with a bracket that has three holes for the bolts to run thru the stringer. am i missing somthing?

MOBILEMERCMAN

They are called race mounts and are non adjustable. It is good to check when servicing drives though. Likely never have to do anything with alignment. Get the spline grease and grease every season.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

If they were installed right, your alignment should be fine.
With that said;

Check them anyways. Mine were both off from the factory. I had to pull both motors right after I bought my boat before the thing seen water do to both mine being shot with only 100 hrs on the clock. I could not get the tool to go in either motor when checked. Only way was if the 6-7 bolts than bolt the offshore mount to the AL angle were left loose. Just tightening those bolts up, lifted the rear of both motors off the transom assembly. Turned out that the AL angle brackets were not installed flush with the motor mounts. (tight at bottom, gap at top) I had to install spacers between the 2. Larger spacer at top, thinning on downward. Now it is perfect. I didn't want to slot the AL brackets holes to make them flush to the mounts for fear of them moving, thus the varied thickness spacers. Fountain fugged up big time here. No way they should have left the motors loose, installed the drives, then tightened the motor mounts, as that was the only way the drives would have gone on. The transom and stringers were all fine.

Hopefully you'll be fine, cause it's a tight sqeeze getting to them. I had my complete exhaust off since the motors were pulled, so made it much easier to reach the motor mount bolts.

266ltd

i checked the alignment when i purchesed the boat and it was spot on just a slight bit of push and it slide right in.lol. but that was two years ago and was going to do it again and that is when i really stated looking at the mounts and notices no adj. should i do it again? US1 how do u winterize your boat? i can not reach the knock sensor or the water pressure fitting to drain my block, so i pull the thermostat out so the i dont have to worry about it being open, the gauge being off, or the thermostat shutting, and run af. through the motor, aprox. 8-9 gal. per motor so i know that all water is pushed out and not dilluting the af. to much. then i pull all the hoses and drain some back out so that if it is dilluted it might have some room to expand? i also run the 2 stroke out board oil 2.oz in fillter untill empty, one motor seems to smoke alot more than the other when i do that any ideas why there would be a dif. sorry for the long post.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I have a 5 gal bucket that is filled with the pink stuff that has a hose that attches to my flush setup I installed on my boat that accepts the garden hose end. When we pull the boat out for the season, by the time we get it on the trailer, it's up to temp. Then while in the parking lot, I'll hook up the bucket of AF to teh flush connector, open the valve on the bucket, then start the motor. I'll let it run till it uses the full 5 gals, then shut off motor and then change oil/fileter. Takes about 5 min/motor to winterize and suck the oil out. I used to pull all the hoses and such and also tried the 2 stroke oil in the fuel sep once, but a real pain to do , so I don't do it. My boat stays in my garage, so really never any concern of freezing. I do the AF thing mostly to prevent the motor from rusting, but it does check protected with the tester.

266ltd

that sounds about the same way i do it. my boat came with the fresh water flush sys. thanks for all the help.

Yamaha 225

If you have sea strainers, just take off the cap and get someone to start the engine while you pour a mix of anti freeze and water into it. Works fine. To take off hoses etc. just make you mess up alot more than nessesary. Forgetting to tighten one hose clamp may damage an engine completely if it pop off at full speed when the pressure is at its highest....

I ALWAYS run anti freeze even if the boats are stored warm indoors. in case of a fire or an unexpected thing to happen, the boat can be taken out in the below freezing point temps. It is also great if the boat needs to travel during the winter.. To a new owner, to a paint shop, to a workshop etc.. Often is it difficult to winterize the engine when the boat is indoors. Af does not dry up. A mess if you get it on the ground idoors!

My opinion though.