Real Puzzling water problem
#1
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Denville, NJ
OK, I have a 1997, 35 Lightning with Carb HP500's
The Starboard engine was recently re-built. After the re-build but while the engine was out of the boat, the shop tested and found a water issue. This was traced to a bad intake manifold (replaced it) and leaky pipes (had a real good guy weld and test). Since then the boat has been running strong but I am seeing milk in the inside of the valve cover. IT DOES NOT appear on the dip stick or in on the springs, rockers etc...The oil level does not appear to be going up but, I clean the stuff out and it appears again. i have changed the oil once since the re-build but still am getting this cream. No one can tell me desisively whether it is residule water from when the problem existed or coming in new. When they re-built, block and heads were madnifluxed, no issues.
Also, Someone also told me Reversion is prevelent with this boat????
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Dan
The Starboard engine was recently re-built. After the re-build but while the engine was out of the boat, the shop tested and found a water issue. This was traced to a bad intake manifold (replaced it) and leaky pipes (had a real good guy weld and test). Since then the boat has been running strong but I am seeing milk in the inside of the valve cover. IT DOES NOT appear on the dip stick or in on the springs, rockers etc...The oil level does not appear to be going up but, I clean the stuff out and it appears again. i have changed the oil once since the re-build but still am getting this cream. No one can tell me desisively whether it is residule water from when the problem existed or coming in new. When they re-built, block and heads were madnifluxed, no issues.
Also, Someone also told me Reversion is prevelent with this boat????
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Dan
#3
Are you runnng t-stats? Are your motors staying at temp?,
But being just on the underneath sides of the V/C, I'd suspect condensation. (cold engine temps)
Also,double check your intake bolts. I chased the same problem. Even though I torqued the intake down going around the pattern 3x, the intake was still pulling down and the 1st bolts in the sequence were then finger only tight. I finally kept going around the torque sequence until the 1st bolt was still holding torque, then never had another issue again. I think it took about 10x around till all the bolts were torqued.
But being just on the underneath sides of the V/C, I'd suspect condensation. (cold engine temps)
Also,double check your intake bolts. I chased the same problem. Even though I torqued the intake down going around the pattern 3x, the intake was still pulling down and the 1st bolts in the sequence were then finger only tight. I finally kept going around the torque sequence until the 1st bolt was still holding torque, then never had another issue again. I think it took about 10x around till all the bolts were torqued.
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 05-22-2009 at 04:48 PM.
#6
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From: Denville, NJ
The consensus is Reversion. This possibly caused by the wrong cam being installed by the rebuild shop. The cure will be to correc tthe cam and go with a high sweep riser. The question, do I have to rebuild teh eingine again if it is still running? There is water in a couple of cylinders. They have filled it with antifreeze to stop damage but where from here? Do I have to have the engine torn down or run compreseeion and leak down, rinse with diesel fuel and see what happens?
Dan
Dan
#7
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: West Hills, CA & Lake Havasu
The consensus is Reversion. This possibly caused by the wrong cam being installed by the rebuild shop. The cure will be to correc tthe cam and go with a high sweep riser. The question, do I have to rebuild teh eingine again if it is still running? There is water in a couple of cylinders. They have filled it with antifreeze to stop damage but where from here? Do I have to have the engine torn down or run compreseeion and leak down, rinse with diesel fuel and see what happens?
Dan
Dan
If you are pretty sure it is reversion, no you should not have to rebuild the engine again, but get it cleaned up RIGHT NOW, get all the water out and clean oil in. Change the cam back to what the original cam spec was and you should be ok. Be sure that the thermostat is working properly and that the engine is getting up to operating temperature. Give it a good long run and that will boil off all the moisture when it is warmed up. Be sure you have flappers on the exhuast tips and be careful of rapid decelerations that is when you have the greatest chance of sucking water into the engine through the exhaust.
Good luck on the project.
David
#9
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From: Denville, NJ
We have not gotten that far. My plan is that assuming leak down and compression tests go well, they will see what CAM is in the rebuilt motor to make sure it is correct for it.
Then, new high sweep pipes and see if the Reversion issue goes away!!
Dan
Then, new high sweep pipes and see if the Reversion issue goes away!!
Dan




