Dash Refurbish Help
 

I'm redoing the dash on my '94 27 fever. I've got all my new gauges moved to the new dash and now starting to move the switches from the old dash to the new. My problem is the little red indicator lights next to the Navigation, etc., switches at the top left of the dash. (see pic) In order to push the lights through the front of the dash I'll have to cut the wires at the top and bottom of the group of lights and I don't want to cut any wires if I don't have to. Is there a way I can get the lens off so I can just pull the lights out the back of the dash? Thanks for any help you can give...ts27 :drink::drink: Oh yeah...I need a source for new pointers for my trim indicators too.:eek:

I did the same thing on my 38EC, went to a carbon fiber dash and had to cut those wires and solder them back together. I could see no way to remove the lense off the indicator lights as they appear to be a single plastic housing. If you find new pointers, let me know too. New dash looks great.

Thanks 38...ecman. That's what I was thinking I'd have to do...:eek: I just don't like cutting if I don't have to. I'll bite the bullet tonight. If I can find some pointers I'll pass it on to you. Thanks again for your help...fs27:drink:

You have to remove those lights from the backside. They are all one piece. They are also brittle probably from being old, so be careful.

I ended up throwing all mine away. I ordered these to replace them...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RED-L...21536947161236

If you dont mind me askin, who did your dash? looks great!

I got the dash from Livorsi ($450)...I'm hoping to sell the old dash to someone talented enough to refinish it instead of taking the easy way out like I did. I'm taking the controls down to metal and buffing them and will put a Momo Spargi platnium wheel on it. I can't get to ebay on my work computer so i;ll have to check on the new lights tonight. I'll do a test on the old ones and if their not working I'll get some new ones. Thanks for the input.:drink:

Yea you will have to resolder them, I needed to buy some new ones, think I got them from Livorsi. Don't forget to use a sealing type of heat shrink when you solder them. It seals them so humidity doesn't effect them.

I got my heat shrink from a local Fastnel supply house.

The lights i had in my dash had spade terminals on them. I may still have them laying around, if you should need a few. They worked fine...

I might be shopping for a new dash panel. Sent mine out to team marine, and havent heard back from the guy in almost 2 months. Should sent it to wildman like i was going to originally! Figured team marine would do the powdercoat and engraving all in one shot to save time. So much for that. He's had it for 3 months and is nowhere to be found.

Wildman...I really like what you did with your dash...didn't realize you contract-out or I would have checked with you. I'll definitly be using heat shrink...thanks

Mild Thunder...we're getting close to lake-time...hope you get yours back soon. It takes about 3-4 weeks turn-around time just buying one from livorsi unless you want white. I think they keep white in stock and use them to do special colors. Good luck with yours. ts27

The bites man, does he have everything or just the panel? Sorry, my turn around would have been quicker but yea, I can't do the engraving so you would have had to send it to Livorsi for that.

Live and learn ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thunderstruck,

Yea I do all kind of stuff, nothing real large but what I can fit in.

Here are just a few examples, still need to get my facebook page up with more.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5407134...0343/lightbox/

Yep. He has my throttles, main dash panel, and side panel. Sucks. I got all new autometer platinums sitting here too!

What color is your dash? My gauges are platnium on platnium w/ a SS bezel and I'm stripping and buffing the controls. I got all the switches and lights mounted to the new dash last night...what a birds nest. Anyway, I tested the red lights and they all worked and look like new so I reinstalled them too. Thanks for the offer though. I'll solder the wires back together tonight...I hate soldering! Here's hoping you get your dash and controls back soon...I'd like to see some pics when you do. ts27

Fountain has the SoLiCo lights and tab/trim indicator pointers. I just painted my pointers with fusion red plastic paint. Had my controls chromed. If you have the controls with fountain cast into the handles, they are built by Livorsi. Livorsi was great getting me plastic inserts, rubber boots, etc. Are really thought about stripping down to bronze and clear coating. Is that what you are doing?

I have a 27' Fountain also and i just ordered all new Lavorsi gauges from Elite marine. I have never replaced gauges so i was wondering if i am going to have to solder every wire? Im pretty sure i am going to have to but i figured i would ask to make sure.

I was thinking about soldering each wire and then heat shrinking them. Is that the best way of doing it?

Any input would be great.

You shouldn't have to solder the gauges, just the mini lights maybe.

Yes heat shrink should be used, I like the sealing type so that you get a water and vapor proof seal.

this type of heat shrink.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/p...iZjubwqh&Nty=0

These if you need new connectors.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/p...N-gj52yx&Nty=0

The reason i said i had to solder them is because the gauges i am getting have the plug in connectors. The gauges i have now are the older styler with the round connectors that you hold in place with a screw.

I figured i would have to solder the old wires to the new plg in connectors then plug them into the now gauges.

Does that make since or am i confusing you?

http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/dc_gallery.htm Go here and scroll to the bottom and you will see the plug in connectors

LOL

No I am not confused on this but most of the time I am!

Well, at least when you get done it will be a better set up, I just had my old gauges redone so there are a ton of ring connectors that can go bad.

Let us see it when you finish.

The livorsi's I bought from Teague were of the previous edition and still had the screw terminals. It seems to me that livorsi would have designed a connector to go on the end of your wire (after cutting the old connector) to make an easy transition from old to new. Might be worth checking with livorsi to see if that's the case. Otherwise, like Wildman said, you shouldn't have to do any cut and solder if all your replacing is the gauges. Good luck and let us know if livorsi has a ready made connector. ts27

pitts1313
 

pitts...thanks for the source on the pointers (should have been obvious but for some reason I never consider Fountain as a source for my old fever:lolhit:) I missed your question earlier...my controls are made by kirkenhaufer(sp.) and look to be SS under the paint. I'm just sanding and buffing to a brushed SS look. If the "look" doesn't hold over time I will either have them powder coated or get me some new ones during the next off-season. Hope this answers your question...ts27

Livorsi will not refurbish old gauges anymore. That is what they told me today. So it is new or nothing.

To bad it was a h*ll of a deal.

Cool pics and paint WILDMAN :ernaehrung004::ernaehrung004:

It is only $12 cheaper than a new gauge is what they told me. New gauge has built in led lights.

I had a few red lights go out on me on my side panel. When I replace them the lights came with cable tails and I just used heat shrink butt connectors to go from wire to wire, but you guys were talking about soldering??? Does anyone have a Fountain with soldering under the dash? Because my 1997 47' does not.......should I have used solder?

My indicator lights weren't originally soldered, but I think after cutting the wires the solder makes for a more permanent, maintenance free connection. I actually just connected all the wires to a single heavier wire and connected it to the ground going to the fuse block cause the ground stud on my new gauge was too short for the connector. How about posting a pic of your dash with the new lights? I'd like to see them.

OK give me a little time most of my photos of my boat are to big for the offshore uploader so I got to resize them.

Thanks

New Senders wiring problem
 

Okay...I got new senders to go with the new gauges and got a surprise when I went to install the senders. I expected to see the same color-code at the engine that is on the gauge end but found some differences. The oil pressure is obvious and I'm pretty sure the oil temp sender is the one on the remote oil-filter. I've got the mech. water pressure so it's obvious too. The problem is the water temp on the engine...I've got 2 senders on the front of my intake manifold. The front starboard sender has a light brown wire and there is one on the front port side with a brown/blue strip. Which one goes to the water temp gauge and what is the other's function? I don't have a wiring diagram so I need some help here...please and thanks. ts27

If you went with Livorsi gauges give fred a call and he'll walk ya thru it ,just went thru the same thing with a dozen gauges :drink:
good luck

Okay...thanks!

Wish I could do this. For twins i priced it out. About 700 for gauges, 300 for new dash panel or I could paint it. Probably 200-300 new steering wheel, re paint throttles for about 100. I just cant justify 1300 bucks into a dash right now. My stuff isnt as much worn looking as it just maybe is outdated. Wish I could find some descent gauges that were cheaper than livorsi and graffig

Check out autometer marine gauges at cpperformance.com.

Also, if the budget is really tight, check out

http://sscompetition.com/

Lots of guys used them with good luck here on oso.

Brown/blue is high water temp switch, that activates the alarm. Brown is water temp sender for gauge. :drink:

ALL RIGHT...that's what I was looking for...thanks!:kiss::drink::drink::drink:

Yep...I understand, but hey...my kids flew the nest so that makes me the only one left to spoil so what the hay!:lolhit:

thanks mine work and arent in horrible shape like I said almost spending a grand on gauges right now doesnt make sense. I am looking at all the cost of getting the boat ready, new stereo etc.

more then a $ G thing Bro :eek::drink:

maybe for some crazy stuff but Ive got quotes from two guys on OSO than sell Livorsi and Graffig. for standard white faced gauges and bezels for twins I got a 670 dollar quote for everything minus the Speedos.

I may be wrong but GPS,Depth finder, & Steering wheel will blow thru $900.00 :eek:

Didnt need GPS or depth finder. Im talking straight gauges were about 700 bucks minus speedo, dash plate 300, plus a steering a wheel. So either you guys are going all out or spending money blindly.