Bravo 1 Lower Unit
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Bravo 1 Lower Unit
Busted my Bravo 1's lower unit skeg yesterday. A triangular piece broke off at the very tip (closest to prop). Abot 3" high by about 1" long.
Can this be repaired by welding the piece back? Should take the opportunity to install a shorter X dimension lower unit? I know discussions on x dim are abundant but I really can't get a feeling on overall performance effect on 27s. Are there economically feasible (in terms of $ per increased performance) upgrades in terms of these lower units?
I have a non-stepped 27' Fever. 502 in the process of upgrades and hopefully about 525 hp in the next two weeks.
Any thoughts? Thanks,
Pablo
Can this be repaired by welding the piece back? Should take the opportunity to install a shorter X dimension lower unit? I know discussions on x dim are abundant but I really can't get a feeling on overall performance effect on 27s. Are there economically feasible (in terms of $ per increased performance) upgrades in terms of these lower units?
I have a non-stepped 27' Fever. 502 in the process of upgrades and hopefully about 525 hp in the next two weeks.
Any thoughts? Thanks,
Pablo
#2
Registered
Pablo,
On my previous boat I broke the skeg exactly like you describe. I did it backing down the launch ramp with the drive in the down position too early. I took it to a local guy who does mine and a lot of friends prop work. He repairs skegs also. The boat did not drive any different but I couldnt stand looking at the missing chip. I should have left it alone. When I picked up the drive I was fuming mad! The guy cut the skeg off all the way across parallel to the propshaft about 2" higher than the chip and welded a new piece on. This made it look like I had to replace the entire skeg. I *****ed but he assured me that this was the only correct way to repair the chip. Looking back on it I wish I would have just ground it down to a straight edge and painted it.
There are some stainless replacement skegs that bolt onto the existing skeg, but I never have seen one installed in person. Skeg Guard is the brand name I think.
Talk to the person doing the repair and make him explain exactly how he plans on doing it if you go that route.
Good luck,
Ron
On my previous boat I broke the skeg exactly like you describe. I did it backing down the launch ramp with the drive in the down position too early. I took it to a local guy who does mine and a lot of friends prop work. He repairs skegs also. The boat did not drive any different but I couldnt stand looking at the missing chip. I should have left it alone. When I picked up the drive I was fuming mad! The guy cut the skeg off all the way across parallel to the propshaft about 2" higher than the chip and welded a new piece on. This made it look like I had to replace the entire skeg. I *****ed but he assured me that this was the only correct way to repair the chip. Looking back on it I wish I would have just ground it down to a straight edge and painted it.
There are some stainless replacement skegs that bolt onto the existing skeg, but I never have seen one installed in person. Skeg Guard is the brand name I think.
Talk to the person doing the repair and make him explain exactly how he plans on doing it if you go that route.
Good luck,
Ron
#3
Registered
I know this pic isnt of good quality but if you look closely you can see the repair on the skeg. All of that to repair a triangular shaped chip about as big as a silver dollar in the exact position you described.
Ron
Ron
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks RJ. I will be calling around today and see what kind of feedback I get on this.
Like you mentioned, I laso thought of just grinding the corner off to a nice round shape but I am skeptic on the effect this may have hydrodinamically on the prop performance since I know that whole area of the drive is so critical on the water flow to the prop.
Like you mentioned, I laso thought of just grinding the corner off to a nice round shape but I am skeptic on the effect this may have hydrodinamically on the prop performance since I know that whole area of the drive is so critical on the water flow to the prop.