32' Fever Rub Rail Leak Repair?
06-20-2011 | 09:58 PM
#11
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,030
Likes: 9
From: L
Remove the center trim joint peice at swim platform.
Pry the insert out going around and forward past the rub rail section joint on each side. Remove the screws inside the rubrail and pull off the rear section. Clean out all the old sealant as best you can between deck/hull joint all along back and forward to rubrail section joint. Fill the joint full with a good sealer.Use a GOOD sealer.... 3M fast cure 4200 or 5200. Put a dab in each of the screw holes too. Reinstall rubrail. Use a heat gun to soften the insert working a foot at a time. You want the insert to become real pliable, but not so soft you can stretch it easily. Push the insert in with dull putty knife. Works best having someone go in front of you heating the insert while you push it in. It cools and hardens quick.
The hoses for your bilge pumps are looped up inside the rear corners, above the water line so water won't run back in when the thru hull is under water.
Use of check valves on billge pumps are not suggested.
Pry the insert out going around and forward past the rub rail section joint on each side. Remove the screws inside the rubrail and pull off the rear section. Clean out all the old sealant as best you can between deck/hull joint all along back and forward to rubrail section joint. Fill the joint full with a good sealer.Use a GOOD sealer.... 3M fast cure 4200 or 5200. Put a dab in each of the screw holes too. Reinstall rubrail. Use a heat gun to soften the insert working a foot at a time. You want the insert to become real pliable, but not so soft you can stretch it easily. Push the insert in with dull putty knife. Works best having someone go in front of you heating the insert while you push it in. It cools and hardens quick.
The hoses for your bilge pumps are looped up inside the rear corners, above the water line so water won't run back in when the thru hull is under water.
Use of check valves on billge pumps are not suggested.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
06-21-2011 | 07:47 AM
#12
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Remove the center trim joint peice at swim platform.
Pry the insert out going around and forward past the rub rail section joint on each side. Remove the screws inside the rubrail and pull off the rear section. Clean out all the old sealant as best you can between deck/hull joint all along back and forward to rubrail section joint. Fill the joint full with a good sealer.Use a GOOD sealer.... 3M fast cure 4200 or 5200. Put a dab in each of the screw holes too. Reinstall rubrail. Use a heat gun to soften the insert working a foot at a time. You want the insert to become real pliable, but not so soft you can stretch it easily. Push the insert in with dull putty knife. Works best having someone go in front of you heating the insert while you push it in. It cools and hardens quick.
The hoses for your bilge pumps are looped up inside the rear corners, above the water line so water won't run back in when the thru hull is under water.
Use of check valves on billge pumps are not suggested.
Pry the insert out going around and forward past the rub rail section joint on each side. Remove the screws inside the rubrail and pull off the rear section. Clean out all the old sealant as best you can between deck/hull joint all along back and forward to rubrail section joint. Fill the joint full with a good sealer.Use a GOOD sealer.... 3M fast cure 4200 or 5200. Put a dab in each of the screw holes too. Reinstall rubrail. Use a heat gun to soften the insert working a foot at a time. You want the insert to become real pliable, but not so soft you can stretch it easily. Push the insert in with dull putty knife. Works best having someone go in front of you heating the insert while you push it in. It cools and hardens quick.
The hoses for your bilge pumps are looped up inside the rear corners, above the water line so water won't run back in when the thru hull is under water.
Use of check valves on billge pumps are not suggested.
07-04-2011 | 07:31 AM
#13
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: 1000islands - Ontario
hey guys before we start stretching a new TACO rubrail, did anyone try to do it with 1 ONE solid piece and if so TACO only provides 70' then 200' from what we noticed. Did 70' stretch enough around when heated to do a 32' or did you have to buy and chop up a 200' roll?
cheers
cheers
07-05-2011 | 08:00 PM
#14
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 227
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From: Dallas, TX
so i took my rub rail apart this past weekend and not much of a gap was visible at all. however i resealed with 5200. the next week i took it out and same thing! still leaking!
i believe i have found the true leak. when the water come into the bilge blower exhaust hole, i understand someone said it cant get into the bilge because a long tube travels upward, however!... that large black tube loosely fits around the fiberglass part of the exhaust hole. I believe once the water travels up inside the tube and then starts to come back down to drain back in the lake, it gets directed into the lose part of the tube and goes directly into the bilge. Anyone agree?
i believe i have found the true leak. when the water come into the bilge blower exhaust hole, i understand someone said it cant get into the bilge because a long tube travels upward, however!... that large black tube loosely fits around the fiberglass part of the exhaust hole. I believe once the water travels up inside the tube and then starts to come back down to drain back in the lake, it gets directed into the lose part of the tube and goes directly into the bilge. Anyone agree?
07-05-2011 | 09:55 PM
#15
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,030
Likes: 9
From: L
Sounds very possible, especially if they didn't get a good seal between the tube and hole. Fill it with 5200 too. Might line the hole with tape to keep the sealer cleanup to a min. while squeeging it in.
I've heard twice now that the rubrail resealing didn't cure all. Guess this should also be suggested.
I've heard twice now that the rubrail resealing didn't cure all. Guess this should also be suggested.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
07-06-2011 | 10:04 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Sounds very possible, especially if they didn't get a good seal between the tube and hole. Fill it with 5200 too. Might line the hole with tape to keep the sealer cleanup to a min. while squeeging it in.
I've heard twice now that the rubrail resealing didn't cure all. Guess this should also be suggested.
I've heard twice now that the rubrail resealing didn't cure all. Guess this should also be suggested.
07-08-2011 | 12:24 PM
#17
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Dubuque, IA
so i took my rub rail apart this past weekend and not much of a gap was visible at all. however i resealed with 5200. the next week i took it out and same thing! still leaking!
i believe i have found the true leak. when the water come into the bilge blower exhaust hole, i understand someone said it cant get into the bilge because a long tube travels upward, however!... that large black tube loosely fits around the fiberglass part of the exhaust hole. I believe once the water travels up inside the tube and then starts to come back down to drain back in the lake, it gets directed into the lose part of the tube and goes directly into the bilge. Anyone agree?
i believe i have found the true leak. when the water come into the bilge blower exhaust hole, i understand someone said it cant get into the bilge because a long tube travels upward, however!... that large black tube loosely fits around the fiberglass part of the exhaust hole. I believe once the water travels up inside the tube and then starts to come back down to drain back in the lake, it gets directed into the lose part of the tube and goes directly into the bilge. Anyone agree?
07-08-2011 | 02:02 PM
#18
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,008
Likes: 752
From: Traverse City, Michigan
I have a 32' sport fish cruiser. The boat carries a little more weight forward then the other 32's so it sits a little highter at the rear.
As much as I like the boat I think Fountain probably missed on the 32 design considering the side vents, bildge pump and blower integeration. A rub rail that approaches the water line, engine compartment vents that approach the water line and a bunch of thru hull fittings below the water line don't make sense.
Mine has sat in a open boat well for a few complete summers and I do think of the "your boat is sinking " phone call whenever a good wind blows towards the aft end of the hull.
I just hope if it ever sinks it sinks deep, real deep in open water and avoids the insurance battles regarding the boat being repairable.
ed
As much as I like the boat I think Fountain probably missed on the 32 design considering the side vents, bildge pump and blower integeration. A rub rail that approaches the water line, engine compartment vents that approach the water line and a bunch of thru hull fittings below the water line don't make sense.
Mine has sat in a open boat well for a few complete summers and I do think of the "your boat is sinking " phone call whenever a good wind blows towards the aft end of the hull.
I just hope if it ever sinks it sinks deep, real deep in open water and avoids the insurance battles regarding the boat being repairable.
ed
