Pulling motors
#15
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,318
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From: Merritt Island, FL
I left my headers on but then had to take port inside off to get pipes on. The headers are easier to work on but still not enough room to get an arm through unless you are a 8 year old boy.
Getting to the motor mounts is a PITA no matter what.
Getting to the motor mounts is a PITA no matter what.
#17
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Joined: Feb 2011
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I installed 588 tall decks with Stellings big tube headers on my 1998 32. Randy at Stellings built these specific for my application allowing me to access anything needed between the blocks. Nothing beats custom built over production headers. Standard headers in a 32 allows no servicing on anything between the motors which can result in some real heartache
#18
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 60
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From: Tipp City, OH
Hey Tommy-glad to hear you're making progress on the boat. Couple things- leave the brackets that mount to the stringers in the boat, and pull the engine with the offshore mount still attached. The manifolds are not fun to work around, but pulling the risers off the manifolds makes a world of difference. Coming out, leave as much on the engine as you can, and the same with going back in-as you've found not a ton of room to work with engines still in the bilge. Taking the trim pumps out will help as well. The engine mount to bracket bolts, I used a 4 foot extension on my impact and had somebody run it for me while I held the nuts with a wrench. As far as aligning the engine (coupler to gimbal) I have the alignment tool and you're more than welcome to use it.
#20
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Joined: Oct 2014
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It's been a hard to get motivated to work on it for sure, the one motors done the others ready to go to machine shop. Need to find someone to set all the timing and stuff when's it's back together, in a perfect world all the alignment should still be good, but maybe should check it. But I feel a 42 would make life much easier





