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Replacing Rotted Transom

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Old 04-19-2004, 08:10 PM
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Default Replacing Rotted Transom

Some of you may have been following my progess on the '84 10 Meter I bought in Feb.
Things have been going as planned. Motors are coming together, dash, throttles, and gauges are on their way.

Today the weather was nice. I went to work on the engine compartment. Cleaning, disassembling getting ready for bilge paint. The boat I have, has a fresh water flush starboard side near the rub rail. I pulled it in the process of cleaning.

I found that the wood core was VERY wet near the hole. I did some poking and the wood is rotted to the exhaust cutout. Checking further, the wood is rotted as far down as I can stick my finger. As I bang on the hull with my fist, I have a hollow sound nearly to the K-plane/drives. I pulled all of the exhaust tips, same thing. The port side is only slightly less rotted in the same areas. The area between the drives seems ok, although it's academic at this point. I need to replace the transom core. The gel is in perfect shape as is the interior glass (no cracks anywhere).

I'm looking for guidance. I will tackle this job, with help. Who has done this? What would you do differently? How did you do it?

Thanks for the help...
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Old 04-20-2004, 05:24 AM
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You might want to poll the whole board on this one. I have seen it done and the process was not pretty, cant speak from my own experience though..
Good luck!!!
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Old 04-20-2004, 08:27 PM
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You may want to have Watercraft Clinic, Red Creek, look at it or Great Lakes Boat Repair, Sodus Point. See tech section. At least you found it early enough before season starts.
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Old 04-20-2004, 09:23 PM
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Bryan...

I have not had to do this job yet, but I do know someone that did. I would have it tested with a moisture meter to see how far it goes. I would cut the fiberglass away on the inside of the transom. Then you can remove the core in small pieces with a chisel and lots of muscle. The core is made up of two pieces of 3/4 marine plywood epoxied together. I did fill in my exhaust and steering cylinder holes to relocate them. I moved the exhaust because when I was idling around the docks my wife would get soaked from the pipes being in the water. I moved the steering cylinders to the outside when I installed Marine Machine steering. I will ask my friend if he has any other tips for you. We can talk about installing new core and doing glass work next time.

Steve
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Old 04-20-2004, 09:46 PM
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Pick up a copy of West System's Fiberglass Repair Booklet (any store that sells West System). There is a great section on rebuilding transoms. You don't have to use West, but it is really great stuff to work with and I would recommend it. Do check the stringers also, a friend of mine just had his transom and all stringers done last year in a 13 Meter. The stringers were rotted 10 feet up from the transom and 8-10 feet back from the bow. Any place you suspect, just drill a small hole into the area and see what the wood is like that comes out.
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:02 AM
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Thanks guys. I'm going to dig into it this weekend. I'll post some pics when I get it apart. I have to believe that rot has to be at least a concern in any boat this age. To me, it makes no sense to bad-aid it. It's just disappointing. Fortunately, materials won't be out of sight expensive.
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:06 PM
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Allrighty then,

Let me appologize right now for no pics, problem with program

Anyway, the transom was stripped, Thanks for the help Jim...

I cut the inner sheet of glass (liner of sorts). I cut it very close (half inch?) to the hull sides and then around the stringers, finally across the top of the transom sheet. I got the glass out in one piece, yipee

I pulled all of the wood core out of the transom. I used a prybar and hammer. The wood came out reasonably well. In fact, all of the wood has been cleaned out down to the glass. One stringer is just alittle soft, the rest are good. This isn't all that critical as each stringer will be cut at an angle to facilitate setting the new wood in place. You guys should see the wood that came out. It was like mulch. There was NO dry wood anywhere. Unbelievable.

This job is taking some time, but definitely managable. I am going to use epoxy for bonding.

I promise to get photos up. Sorry for the length, but I have to believe that there are others with the same problem. If you have some experience and confidence, anyone can do this
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Old 05-04-2004, 04:00 PM
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You're making my stomach hurt just thinking about a rotted transom. I read this thread yesterday and spend last night sounding my transom. Thank God it's all dry!!!

Good luck with the project and post some pics would ya'!
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:29 PM
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Believe me I was sick. Fortunately, the motors were already out. Tomorrow, I will finnish preping the glass surfaces and begin a template for the new wood. I will do a few dry runs for a good fit and finally epoxy the two pieces of wood together. I am using 2 x 4's through bolted to create a sandwich (uniform press.)

I promise to post pics. Bryan
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Old 07-02-2004, 08:55 PM
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Default Re: Replacing Rotted Transom

Check the tech section. I posted pics of the transom project...
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