pullmytrigger

building a 1700 sq ft shop for the boat and the cars........going to be pouring the floor in a week or so.......dont know much about concrete....as far as I know theres only 2 types.....regular and some suff with fibers in it to give it strength......which would be the best???

anyone right up on this that could give a quick "concrete 101???"........remember Im in the land of cold winters.....

aaaaanddd.....the building inspector says he wants to see 1" styrofoam insulation under the floor minimum around the outer edges

ratman

3000psi or higher and have it polished out while almost dry with one of those machines

Comanche3Six

6" of 5000psi with steel, put visqueen underneath, powertrowel finish

RLW

Don't forget the radiant floor tubing. It can always be connected up at a future date.
I used the fiber impregnated concrete for my sidewalks.

offshoredrillin

then use www.ucoatit.com or a comparable paint and sealer, you can add aluminum oxide for traction and you'll never have to worry about it again....

ck54

Use steel fibers in it, www.fiberconfiber.com

Perfectmix

PullMyTrigger:
You want to go with a 3500psi(5.5sac)mix. Grade should be 4"-5" this is plenty for your application. Because you have freeze thaw I would recommend that they use crushed limestone. Instread of Natural round stone. It should only cost you a couple bucks extra per yard.(or meter for you canadians) Order your concrete with residential fibermesh. Don't use wire unless you have to, or you decide to install infloor heat.
As far as the styro-foam, well that stuff is a PITA. If you are going to heat the building ask you local Lumber Yard of Redi-Mix plant for a product called Insul-tarp instead of styrofoam. Is is much easier to deal with and the R-factor is little better. Plus it is cheaper than styro.
If you are pouring an approach on this building make sure that it is a 4000psi(6sac) mix. Again crushed lime stone and make sure you seal it.
I live in N. Michigan and winters are tough here also. Concrete really takes a beating in the winter. Make sure your contracrtor or you don't wet the chit out of the concrete prior to pouring and never spray water on top of fresh concrete to help finishing. It will lead to future problems. PM me if you need any info. Good Luck
Josh

jdub

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to cut expansion joints. Tell your contractor to use a Soff-Cut saw and fill the joints with Sika (brand name) caulk. Concrete will do two things.. get hard and crack.

Jassman

Exactly what he said, great advise. Also not needed but we do it to help give the concrete a place to crack..is divide your garage and put expansion joints with a trowel vs saw cut, and I divide them in a manner length wise down the middle and cross ways, approx 10x10, or 15x15. etc. Good luck. Jeff

R Addiction

HMMMMM..................This is being built as we speak....all concrete, with radiant heat on both floors (only wood here is in the rafters and roofing!!! Can anyone say "BUNKER" My AT will be real safe (and warm) in here.