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-   -   single v bottom with #6 (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion/148270-single-v-bottom-6-a.html)

TeamSaris 01-04-2007 07:01 PM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 

Originally Posted by tabajay (Post 1982645)
Seem to work OK on a certain 100mph 18' Donzi.

You are correct it works well on that particular boat, but that is apples and oranges to an offshore boat.
That and the boat I know of has a big pad, and is switching to a Konrad.
I am sorry if i offended anyone.

tabajay 01-05-2007 08:01 PM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 
No offense taken, fast fun 2, I just thought to mention it.

cougarman 01-06-2007 08:39 AM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 

Originally Posted by check300 (Post 1982431)
Thanks for all the kind words Cougarman. As you know if I had to do this project over again, I wouldn't hesitate do go the same route with the #6. This package has been bullet proof. I think that with the drive so far back from the transom the boat acts and handles like to was a couple feet longer. I've run in 4 footers and have gone over 90 in 3's.
Bill


Bill,

Great to have you chime in, did Checkmate build the hull differently knowing your plans for the boat, such as stronger transome etc. ?

Jon

masher44 01-06-2007 09:31 AM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 
bigger tabs should make an improvement as well....

tabajay 01-06-2007 02:55 PM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 
Why not the NXT1 before the #6 for a 30' single (assuming under 800hp)?

cougarman 01-06-2007 04:57 PM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 

Originally Posted by tabajay (Post 1984669)
Why not the NXT1 before the #6 for a 30' single (assuming under 800hp)?

Because currently Mercury will not sell you the NXT1 drive.
You can only get it as a package with there 700hp.




Cougarman

Mange 01-07-2007 07:17 AM

Re: single v bottom with #6
 
I know a 3A takes about 90hp. What about a dry SSM #6?

Jg1000 08-09-2017 07:05 AM

Can we re hash this thread 10 years later !? I have a Warlock 29' World Class 1994 with a straight bottom. I've broke my bravo's too many times to count . Got a hook up for a #3A and a spare . Really leaning to go this route. Not interested in Nay sayers. I've seen plenty of surface drives , arneson , #6 , and #4 on boats that work great . Clearly it's in getting the drive height and prop correct . How has had success !? What prop shaft height did you run? What prop did you run?

575cat 08-09-2017 07:30 AM

Nordic 21 @ Nordic factory owner Randy Davis ski race boat 1350 6 drive .

outonsafari 08-09-2017 09:15 AM

Jg1000,
no nay sayer here, go for it
however the 3a is 24 1/4 shaft to shaft,
4 5 & 6 are like 18 5/8 , 18 11/16,
i'm not saying a 3a would or would not work for you, nor am i trying to queer any deal you may have going w/ another member or who ever.
just throwing it out there you'd be deep 18 x = 6 1/4 prop depth as example,

there are some # 4's in the swap shop now that i have nothing to with nor would i gain from there sale.
i'd like to grab one for my boat, (a 26 foot single) and i don't have big power, 496 h.o.
it was originally rigged w/ a 5 on a box w/ a big blower motor

the big bonus is they are driveline w/ extension boxes (as explained pics aren't up yet), means you can mount the engine forward to compensate the cg from weight gain (if you have room in front of the engine), move the box up and down, and i think try it without to get the boat dialed in.

i have the room (at 17 inch x from the transom to the firewall is 64 1/2 inches ) so for me, cg, smooth shift, reliability and the cool factor !
but i just don't know, it's easier to pick a girlfriend and lotto numbers than what drive and what x, at least the first 2 can be changed on a whim w/o the boat being taken all apart.

and again another thread i didn't have to start but was losing sleep over, thanks oso


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