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single v bottom with #6

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Old 01-05-2007, 09:01 PM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

No offense taken, fast fun 2, I just thought to mention it.
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:39 AM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

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Originally Posted by check300 View Post
Thanks for all the kind words Cougarman. As you know if I had to do this project over again, I wouldn't hesitate do go the same route with the #6. This package has been bullet proof. I think that with the drive so far back from the transom the boat acts and handles like to was a couple feet longer. I've run in 4 footers and have gone over 90 in 3's.
Bill

Bill,

Great to have you chime in, did Checkmate build the hull differently knowing your plans for the boat, such as stronger transome etc. ?

Jon
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:31 AM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

bigger tabs should make an improvement as well....
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Old 01-06-2007, 03:55 PM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

Why not the NXT1 before the #6 for a 30' single (assuming under 800hp)?
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Old 01-06-2007, 05:57 PM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

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Why not the NXT1 before the #6 for a 30' single (assuming under 800hp)?
Because currently Mercury will not sell you the NXT1 drive.
You can only get it as a package with there 700hp.




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Old 01-07-2007, 08:17 AM
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Default Re: single v bottom with #6

I know a 3A takes about 90hp. What about a dry SSM #6?
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:05 AM
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Can we re hash this thread 10 years later !? I have a Warlock 29' World Class 1994 with a straight bottom. I've broke my bravo's too many times to count . Got a hook up for a #3A and a spare . Really leaning to go this route. Not interested in Nay sayers. I've seen plenty of surface drives , arneson , #6 , and #4 on boats that work great . Clearly it's in getting the drive height and prop correct . How has had success !? What prop shaft height did you run? What prop did you run?
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:30 AM
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Nordic 21 @ Nordic factory owner Randy Davis ski race boat 1350 6 drive .
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:15 AM
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Jg1000,
no nay sayer here, go for it
however the 3a is 24 1/4 shaft to shaft,
4 5 & 6 are like 18 5/8 , 18 11/16,
i'm not saying a 3a would or would not work for you, nor am i trying to queer any deal you may have going w/ another member or who ever.
just throwing it out there you'd be deep 18 x = 6 1/4 prop depth as example,

there are some # 4's in the swap shop now that i have nothing to with nor would i gain from there sale.
i'd like to grab one for my boat, (a 26 foot single) and i don't have big power, 496 h.o.
it was originally rigged w/ a 5 on a box w/ a big blower motor

the big bonus is they are driveline w/ extension boxes (as explained pics aren't up yet), means you can mount the engine forward to compensate the cg from weight gain (if you have room in front of the engine), move the box up and down, and i think try it without to get the boat dialed in.

i have the room (at 17 inch x from the transom to the firewall is 64 1/2 inches ) so for me, cg, smooth shift, reliability and the cool factor !
but i just don't know, it's easier to pick a girlfriend and lotto numbers than what drive and what x, at least the first 2 can be changed on a whim w/o the boat being taken all apart.

and again another thread i didn't have to start but was losing sleep over, thanks oso

Last edited by outonsafari; 08-09-2017 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jg1000 View Post
Can we re hash this thread 10 years later !? I have a Warlock 29' World Class 1994 with a straight bottom. I've broke my bravo's too many times to count . Got a hook up for a #3A and a spare . Really leaning to go this route. Not interested in Nay sayers. I've seen plenty of surface drives , arneson , #6 , and #4 on boats that work great . Clearly it's in getting the drive height and prop correct . How has had success !? What prop shaft height did you run? What prop did you run?
speaking from first hand experience drive height is absolutely critical to get it to perform, too low and it's going to be a dog. Period. Dragging that giant case through the water is like dragging a boat anchor. I've been there done that and wasted more money then I'd like to talk about. On the transom even with the bottom. If it's on a box I'd set the box so you can go even 1 and 2 above. I've ran my 28 2 below 1below even and 1 above. night and day difference in speed and boat attitude all around. The higher it went the better the boat felt and handled and drastically started to go faster. Planing ability never changed much. 1 above slips a hair more getting up but even in Point pleasant testing Saturday it planed in 4-6s. If I wasn't racing it I think I would fill the transom and try even higher but I feel I'm at the point of diminishing returns.

if you're still planing on racing the boat. (Procharger guys right?) I would also go straight to a crash box. It'll help recoup some of the parasitic loss in the drive. I went the transmission route at first and saw solid gains everywhere by eliminating that.

As far as props my boat planes with pretty much any of them. I would be willing to let you try some that I have in various diameters and pitch assuming you are running a RH drive. I have the some of the smallest pitch big shaft props.
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