single v bottom with #6
#91
#93
Thanks for all the kind words Cougarman. As you know if I had to do this project over again, I wouldn't hesitate do go the same route with the #6. This package has been bullet proof. I think that with the drive so far back from the transom the boat acts and handles like to was a couple feet longer. I've run in 4 footers and have gone over 90 in 3's.
Bill
Bill
Bill,
Great to have you chime in, did Checkmate build the hull differently knowing your plans for the boat, such as stronger transome etc. ?
Jon
__________________
#96
#98
Registered

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Can we re hash this thread 10 years later !? I have a Warlock 29' World Class 1994 with a straight bottom. I've broke my bravo's too many times to count . Got a hook up for a #3A and a spare . Really leaning to go this route. Not interested in Nay sayers. I've seen plenty of surface drives , arneson , #6 , and #4 on boats that work great . Clearly it's in getting the drive height and prop correct . How has had success !? What prop shaft height did you run? What prop did you run?
#100
Registered

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,941
Likes: 526
Jg1000,
no nay sayer here, go for it
however the 3a is 24 1/4 shaft to shaft,
4 5 & 6 are like 18 5/8 , 18 11/16,
i'm not saying a 3a would or would not work for you, nor am i trying to queer any deal you may have going w/ another member or who ever.
just throwing it out there you'd be deep 18 x = 6 1/4 prop depth as example,
there are some # 4's in the swap shop now that i have nothing to with nor would i gain from there sale.
i'd like to grab one for my boat, (a 26 foot single) and i don't have big power, 496 h.o.
it was originally rigged w/ a 5 on a box w/ a big blower motor
the big bonus is they are driveline w/ extension boxes (as explained pics aren't up yet), means you can mount the engine forward to compensate the cg from weight gain (if you have room in front of the engine), move the box up and down, and i think try it without to get the boat dialed in.
i have the room (at 17 inch x from the transom to the firewall is 64 1/2 inches ) so for me, cg, smooth shift, reliability and the cool factor !
but i just don't know, it's easier to pick a girlfriend and lotto numbers than what drive and what x, at least the first 2 can be changed on a whim w/o the boat being taken all apart.
and again another thread i didn't have to start but was losing sleep over, thanks oso
no nay sayer here, go for it
however the 3a is 24 1/4 shaft to shaft,
4 5 & 6 are like 18 5/8 , 18 11/16,
i'm not saying a 3a would or would not work for you, nor am i trying to queer any deal you may have going w/ another member or who ever.
just throwing it out there you'd be deep 18 x = 6 1/4 prop depth as example,
there are some # 4's in the swap shop now that i have nothing to with nor would i gain from there sale.
i'd like to grab one for my boat, (a 26 foot single) and i don't have big power, 496 h.o.
it was originally rigged w/ a 5 on a box w/ a big blower motor
the big bonus is they are driveline w/ extension boxes (as explained pics aren't up yet), means you can mount the engine forward to compensate the cg from weight gain (if you have room in front of the engine), move the box up and down, and i think try it without to get the boat dialed in.
i have the room (at 17 inch x from the transom to the firewall is 64 1/2 inches ) so for me, cg, smooth shift, reliability and the cool factor !
but i just don't know, it's easier to pick a girlfriend and lotto numbers than what drive and what x, at least the first 2 can be changed on a whim w/o the boat being taken all apart.
and again another thread i didn't have to start but was losing sleep over, thanks oso
Last edited by outonsafari; 08-09-2017 at 09:18 AM.



