| Adivanman |
01-28-2002 09:02 PM |
Thanks for the comments - it's not finished yet but it does run and scoped with no codes on the scan tool. To address some of the questions...
Cooling should not be an issue. Keep in mind when we are in the boats and the temperature rised to over 180 degrees, we have a mechanical problem, not a cooling issue. It is not fair to compare an open boat cooling system with a closed automotive cooling system. 180 degrees has never hurt anything - the problem is that if you go from 150/160 to 180 plus, your raw water impeller has caved and you have no (or less) water flowing through the block. Once you reach 200 (still a safe temperature in an automotive closed system) water begins to boil and there is nothing you can do on the water. You're toast. In a car, you have antifreeze (or other cooling assistants) which do not boil and can sustain temperatures in around 190-200 without failing. In a boat, first the delivery system fails, then the motor - coolant is not the issue.
The motor is real - inside and out. It would CRE anytime with no problem. Full harness, Mercury Racing ECU, the whole migilla.
The motor was expensive. You all know how much. It's real and that's what they are worth.
The car is a 1967 Camaro RS - former Super Stock record holder, now a licensed and insured street car. Turbo 400 automatice, Ford 9" rear, 16.5" wide Mickey Thompsons (rotating in). Interior has Gaffrig Monster gauges (soon to include a GPS Speedo) and is basically stock.
Remote Oil Filter is a killer Rex Marine piece - thanks to Mike at Doller Offshore for that one.
Lots of help from Gene Weeks at Thunder Performance and especially High-Tide (thanks). I will let you all know when it is done.
Next stop, lake X.
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