I would use a synthetic motor oil after you get the motors broke in. Most blower motors don't like all those fancy additives.

With reduced ZDDP in auto oils these days... both Royal Purple and Redline are the way to go for max. ZDDP and MOLY. Great anti-friction and anti-wear agents that boats need.

Not hot on V-twin anymore?

I just switched to a Center Console with Yamaha 200's. The Yamaha manual talks about some stuff they sell called RING FREE.

The mechanics that work on Yamaha's and the Yamaha forums all rave about this stuff and the guys who know about it put it in everything the own that has an engine. I've started using it on cars including a classic Porsche and it really seems to make adifference. I googled the stuff and there is some amazing info about ti and I've seen some engines (inboards and outboards) and I'm a believer regards the benefits.

Worth a look---

Royal Purple was the brand name they were using in the program that I referred to in the earlier post that gained 7 hp over the O'reilly's label. Couldn't remember until I saw it in your post.

Unless you are trying to obtain every last pony out of a motor, trying to run them a 1/2 million + miles, or operating in extreme conditions, you would be hard pressed to notice any difference in the longevity of your engines between doing regular oil changes at the proper intervals using the proper viscosity of a quality oil as you would doing the same and adding some type of oil additive. When was the last time you owned or saw a motor that just plain wore out from use that was properly maintained running nothing more than a conventional oil, let alone a synthetic?

With extended and I mean extended WOT runs I saw about 15 degree cooler oil temps running RedLine vs Mobil 1. Temps are measured before the oil cooler.

Here's the real story...

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm

Great find! You gotta love our legal system.
Bawana

Thank you..excellent find..all B.S.