Cone Job Gone Bad!!?
#13
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I look at skegs and props the same as I do tires on my vehicles. I want to run the best. I would look for a used, undamaged lower to replace that one with. You only need the casing if you can find one. Otherwise, I'd buy a new casing. If you like the boat and are going to keep it then it is money well spent IMO.
#15
I had a cone pop on my drive over winter. The void between the cone and drive had water in it and when the water froze it pushed the the cone loose. I had it tacked on filled the void with fiberglass resin, and used duraglass, so far so good.
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Hey - Thanks for all the info - This is only a minor set back - Clean it paint it and fix it over the winter - still some good lake time left in Oklahoma - chao - chef26
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Laplace,LA
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I had the same problem on mine, just sand it as much as you can put some good epoxy and sand it some more till everything is straight and smooth then paint it satin or silver. Finish the season and put a new lower over the winter, if you look close you can see where the skeg was welded on.
Scott
Scott
#18
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There are stress cracks on both sides and top to bottom of the cone which means your cone needs to come off and get reattached. It is loose. Start over or you will fight this every few months. There is no way for the bondo to come off (short of a hitting bottom) if the cone was not moving and causing cracks.