Skater 30 / ILMOR Indy Upgrade
#101
Nascat, when you get it back, and want an ogler(sp) you just let me know. Just got back from Boston and spent a couple days on my buddy's Warlock, man I miss my boats but 4 kids later, its a little tough right now. Bill
#102
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
Just got an update from Skater, Trevor Stacy that rigged this boat when it was originally built has been overseeing this project & said we're getting close to splashdown.
Everything will be bolted in for good mid next week and assuming the hatches get painted a sea trial could take place before the weeks out. Much like anything else it's the minute details that take the longest.
Remember that Ilmor's Gen4 725 / Indy drive package is an all electronic drive by wire package but my Gen3 710 engine is not. While Ilmor has written the necessary software to get the engine, trans & drive to communicate Trevor is working through getting my tab & drive indicators to work using potentiometers (like a smartcraft system uses) & servos to move the Stainless Marine sticks so that I don't have to reconfigure my dash to accomodate L.E.D. type indicators. which is what Ilmor recommends for their cable free package. The pic of the blue bezeled indicators is courtesy of C-Spray & shows the L.E.D. cable free technology. I have no probelm w/ the L.E.D. other than I have no space & it would require removing ALL my gauges, filling in holes, relocating gages & then putting a new piece of CF over everything only to have to redrill the entire dash (both sides).
Keeping my fingers crossed Trevors plan comes together.
Everything will be bolted in for good mid next week and assuming the hatches get painted a sea trial could take place before the weeks out. Much like anything else it's the minute details that take the longest.
Remember that Ilmor's Gen4 725 / Indy drive package is an all electronic drive by wire package but my Gen3 710 engine is not. While Ilmor has written the necessary software to get the engine, trans & drive to communicate Trevor is working through getting my tab & drive indicators to work using potentiometers (like a smartcraft system uses) & servos to move the Stainless Marine sticks so that I don't have to reconfigure my dash to accomodate L.E.D. type indicators. which is what Ilmor recommends for their cable free package. The pic of the blue bezeled indicators is courtesy of C-Spray & shows the L.E.D. cable free technology. I have no probelm w/ the L.E.D. other than I have no space & it would require removing ALL my gauges, filling in holes, relocating gages & then putting a new piece of CF over everything only to have to redrill the entire dash (both sides).
Keeping my fingers crossed Trevors plan comes together.
#107
Nice. The hydraulic connection block at the top of the Indy transom assembly makes for neat rigging. What are all the small screws scattered around on the inside of the transom? No shutoff valves on the water pickups? (I got picked on for that on in my re-rig.)
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Retired! Boating full-time now.
Retired! Boating full-time now.
#108
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
They were either from the old drive reservoir & or the tyraps w/ eyelets that held the blige blower hose in place. Thats my guess anyway. I'm sure all that will be cleaned up.
Based on the 14" of hose between the hull pickups & strainers is there really a need for a valve? The fresh flush feeds directly into the strainers so it's not as if you'll starve for water while running on the hose. Not sure I see the need.
Last edited by NASCAT; 08-09-2010 at 12:12 PM.
#109
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Very nice piece, I agree.
They were either from the old drive reservoir & or the tyraps w/ eyelets that held the blige blower hose in place. Thats my guess anyway. I'm sure all that will be cleaned up.
Based on the 14" of hose between the hull pickups & strainers is there really a need for a valve. The fresh flush feeds directly into the strainers so it's not as if you'll starve for water while running on the hose. Not sure I see the need.
They were either from the old drive reservoir & or the tyraps w/ eyelets that held the blige blower hose in place. Thats my guess anyway. I'm sure all that will be cleaned up.
Based on the 14" of hose between the hull pickups & strainers is there really a need for a valve. The fresh flush feeds directly into the strainers so it's not as if you'll starve for water while running on the hose. Not sure I see the need.
#110
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From: Charlotte, NC
I guess but the way it's plumbed there's barely room. Hasn't been a problem to date & at a certain point enough is enough. I don't have any of the rubber conforming spikes that people use to plug a hole in their hull nor did I have a bellows repair kit (as if there were such a thing) incase on of those gave up. The applications I've seen them use a sea cock for was used to fresh flush the engines so all the water didn't run out the drive (bravo applications w/o strainers)




